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Re: [oletrucks] T-stat, cooling system general info...

To: wayne osborne <wayne@chevytrucks.org>
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] T-stat, cooling system general info...
From: bigfred@unm.edu
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 09:45:13 -0600
Thanks to everyone who has replied so far.
To answer your question Wayne, the motor definitely cools off when I'm 
cruising.  The stock gauge is in the front of the motor, while the 
autometer is in the back.  When the stock gauge is reading about 200, 
the autometer (back gauge) reads around 210 (or slightly above).  It 
sounds like everyone agrees the T-stat is fully open at 180.

BTW, I have a brand new, 4 core "high efficiency" radiator.

Any more thoughts on ditching the engine drive fan configuration?

Once again thanks to everyone for any input!!!

Quoting wayne osborne <wayne@chevytrucks.org>:

> My understanding is that at 180 degrees the t-stat will pop open. You
> can 
> take one an put in a pot of boiling water and watch its operations,
> be sure 
> to put a thermometer in there for temp references. Someone already
> touched 
> on the fan--as it should be anywhere from  1/2 in and 1/2 out of the
> fan 
> shroud-or very close to that, but not all the way inside as you'll
> get air 
> turbulence inside the shroud cavity and it won't suck air through.
> You'd be 
> better with it sittin more outside than inside-meaning it can be 1/3
> in and 
> 2/3 out and still be ok. The diameter of the fan should come close to
> the 
> diameter of the shroud opening for optimum air movement, I have about
> 1/2 
> inch clearance between the outside edge of the blade and the shroud.
>   Curious how the system reacts when on the road or are you seeing
> this in 
> a non driving situation. I agree with Bob in his comment if it gets
> above 
> 212 or so, there's a problem with your system. If your system reacts
> the 
> same when driving, a pusher fan will not help you any. At highway
> speeds 
> the fans are basically not doing anything as the wind should carry
> enough 
> air to cool.
> Have you pulled the radiator cap and made sure that water movement is
> occurring? You should see good flow and should be able to visibly see
> the 
> movement.
>    You mentioned 2 temp gauges, is the one in back getting up to 212
> or so, 
> what is the front one reading? Sounds like something is not quiet
> right...
> Remember that these trucks originally came without a shroud...
> --wayne
> At 02:26 PM 10/6/03 -0600, bigfred@unm.edu wrote:
> >Hi all,
> >I'm trying to get some basic info regarding how my cooling system
> >works, or should work.
> >I have a totally new system, including motor, heater core, water
> pump,
> >hoses and radiator.
> >1- How does a T-stat work? I have a 180 degree T-stat. Does it
> *start*
> >to open at 180, or is it fully open at 180?
> >2- I have a factory temp gauge in the front of the motor and an
> >aftermarket temp gauge in the back of the motor. My back one always
> >reads a few degrees hotter then my front one, which I would expect.
> >However, I start to get worried when I see it creep up around or
> above
> >210.  Given that the system is pressurized and the boiling point of
> H20
> >is 212 at sea level, it seems like the system should be able to
> operate
> >at well above 212. Is this correct?
> >3- What is the ideal fan set up?  I have a non-flex fan w/o a
> clutch.
> >It is set all the way inside my shroud.  I have heard that it
> should
> >sit 1/3 out and 2/3 inside the shroud. Is this correct? if so, why?
> >Should I run a clutch? Should I just ditch the engine driven fan and
> go
> >with an electric fan?
> >4- What is the opinion on auxilliary pusher fans? Are they just a
> >solution to a problem that is not being addressed?
> >
> >I know I've asked a lot of questions, but I can't seem to find a
> >general concesensus on these.
> >-Thanks
> >-alfie
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> Wayne Osborne
> http://www.chevytrucks.org
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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