In my 59 GMC 6-cyl one of my fanblades broke off while driving, (thank
God I wasn't under the hood working on it!!) so I grabbed my saw and cut
the blade off of the opposite side, so then I had a propeller. It ran a
lil hotter than normal, but when I took my T-stat completly out, it ran
cooler than when I had four blades! So after I found a good fan blade
and installed it, I never installed a new T-stat. I ran that truck for
14 years without a T-stat. In my 58 GMC V-8 I never even installed a
T-stat in it and it stays nice and cool. I put 60% distilled water and
40 % antifreeze in the radiator. You guys and gals that live where it
snows need a T-stat in your rig, but out here in So Cal we really don't
have to have one because it really doesn't get cold enough. So maybe you
can run without a T-stat or get a new one to make sure it opens up
fully. Hope this helps.
1958 GMC 336 V-8 Factory Napco Suburban Carryall
1959 GMC 270 inline 6-cyl Suburban Carryall
1955 to 1959 GMC website: http://members.tripod.com/P-Wee
Become a Member, Restore a Napco! http://www.napco4x4.org
Bryan Hefner wrote:
>I just went thru major problems with overheating on my new 59 TF w/ a 235
>six. Afer a new radiator, and t'stat, it still over heated. The previous
>owner had replaced the stock radiator cap with a 16psi rating, and as soon
>as I went back to the stock 7 psi, she runs great. I am guessing it might be
>due to the rating of the head of the water pump. You might want to check to
>see that you have the correct cap.
>----- Original Message -----
>Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 10:26 AM
>Subject: [oletrucks] T-stat, cooling system general info...
>>I'm trying to get some basic info regarding how my cooling system
>>works, or should work.
>>I have a totally new system, including motor, heater core, water pump,
>>hoses and radiator.
>>1- How does a T-stat work? I have a 180 degree T-stat. Does it *start*
>>to open at 180, or is it fully open at 180?
>>2- I have a factory temp gauge in the front of the motor and an
>>aftermarket temp gauge in the back of the motor. My back one always
>>reads a few degrees hotter then my front one, which I would expect.
>>However, I start to get worried when I see it creep up around or above
>>210. Given that the system is pressurized and the boiling point of H20
>>is 212 at sea level, it seems like the system should be able to operate
>>at well above 212. Is this correct?
>>3- What is the ideal fan set up? I have a non-flex fan w/o a clutch.
>>It is set all the way inside my shroud. I have heard that it should
>>sit 1/3 out and 2/3 inside the shroud. Is this correct? if so, why?
>>Should I run a clutch? Should I just ditch the engine driven fan and go
>>with an electric fan?
>>4- What is the opinion on auxilliary pusher fans? Are they just a
>>solution to a problem that is not being addressed?
>>I know I've asked a lot of questions, but I can't seem to find a
>>general concesensus on these.
>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959