Hi Craig
Now that you mention it I have some of the PVC tubing and I guess the
Polyolefin. The PVC seems to get a little brittle as well, maybe it is
simply a bad batch. I have since stayed 100% with the Polyolefin. Cool
someone who knows the in and outs of this, this list is great :-)
Regards
David A. Templeton
Open Text Corp.
Waterloo, ON
Canada
WebSite: http://trandmustang.homestead.com
'74 Triumph SpitSix
'66 Ford Mustang (Wife's)
'66 Ford Mustang GT
'59 Triumph TR3a (Project)
'99 GMC Safari
'95 GMC K2500 Sierra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Smith" <CraigS@iewc.com>
To: "'David A. Templeton'" <davidt@opentext.com>; "John & Tracy Knox"
<jknox@erie.net>; <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: Soldering wire
> Heat Shrink comes in different types
> PVC
> Polyolefin
> Teflon
> ECT.
>
> The cheapest is PVC
> The Polyolefin is much better, this is also available with an adhesive
> linner. This material 110c heat shrinkable that is co-extruded and
> selectively crosslinked to provide an integral, meltable inner wall.
>
> When heated to 135c the inner meltable wall is softened and forced to by
the
> shrinking to make full contact with all underlying surfaces. Once cooled
it
> makes a very good seal to moisture, chemicals and solvents.
>
> One of my major accounts for this material is Blue Bird Bus and Volvo
Truck.
> Volvo uses the 3M product for ALL connections on the front lights and
other
> harness under the hood.
>
> The 3M product number for those of you that are interested is MW or
EPS-200
> which is a two to one shrink ratio or EPS-300, EPS-400 with the respective
> shrink ratios.
>
> It's not cheap like the PVC but it sure makes a good connection.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David A. Templeton [mailto:davidt@opentext.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 9:17 AM
> To: John & Tracy Knox; spitfires@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Soldering wire
>
>
>
> Okay I need to add 2cents as well. On all of my crimp connections I use
> heat-shrink tubing to ensure a very watertight seal. Being down this road
> many times over the last 15 years the extra cost of adding the heat-shrink
> has been well worth it. Besides it makes for a very professional looking
> finish.
>
> When I changed the alternator in the spit I used crimp & heat shrink
tubing,
> very nice. There is something to beware of, there is a new kind of crimp
> where the outer casing is heat-shrinkable. I used some of these and found
> them to be 'okay' but once cool the casing tended to be a little brittle
and
> some have cracked. They have since been replaced with regular crimp and
> tubing.
>
> My recommendation for the crimp method is to use the regular crimp and a
> separate heat-shrink tube. Then you can control the length of the tube
for
> coverage. Using the tubing does seem to take a little practice as to not
> cook too much, shrink one side to fast, not enough tube etc ( ask me how I
> know :-) ). But it is not hard.
>
> As for connections I can solder I do and then cover then in heat shrink
> tubing. Hey if I solder, I want a permanent connection right?
>
> Good luck in any case
>
> David A. Templeton
> Open Text Corp.
> Waterloo, ON
> Canada
> WebSite: http://trandmustang.homestead.com
>
> '74 Triumph SpitSix
> '66 Ford Mustang (Wife's)
> '66 Ford Mustang GT
> '59 Triumph TR3a (Project)
> '99 GMC Safari
> '95 GMC K2500 Sierra
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John & Tracy Knox" <jknox@erie.net>
> To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 6:59 AM
> Subject: Re: Soldering wire
>
>
> >
> > The problem that I have had with crimp connectors is that they tend to
> > corrode over time or wiggle loose. If they are properly sized for the
> wire
> > they might be fine. What I usually see are the big blue ones crimped on
> > little wires. They will work loose. The other thing that crimp on
> > connectors tend to do is cut the strands if put on too tight. This will
> > also lead to premature failure. The outside strands are cut and this
> allows
> > the inside strands to just slip out. Now with solder connections for
wire
> > to wire I put the wire together with a I think it is called a Western
> Union
> > splice, wrap wire one around wire 2 and wrap wire 2 around wire 1, place
> the
> > soldering iron on the small parallel spot in the middle of the joint,
and
> > heat the wires. Allow solder to soak into wires. Solder will be sucked
> > into the wires once it is hot enough. Now you have me on the 50 years
> later
> > point. My connections haven't been around that long!
> >
> > John
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Marcus Schaper <mschaper@gvpt.umd.edu>
> > To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 9:59 PM
> > Subject: RE: Soldering wire
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I have to jump in on this one. Soldering is a good idea whenever you
> > connect wire to a non-moving object (like a PCB) or two non-moving
objects
> > together. But I do think that soldering is not appropriate for wire to
> wire
> > connections in cars.
> > >
> > > Have you ever worked on the wiring in VW beetle from the 50s? By now
all
> > the solder has oxidized broken loose, solder joints have broken off, and
> it
> > is just a big mess. Each time I work on one of these I wished they had
> just
> > crimp connections - even the two-way bullet connectors for the Spit
> > headlights are superior to deteriorating soldered connections.
> > >
> > > Do not use solder to join strands of wire together that go under a
screw
> > terminal. The solder is too soft and the wires will work loose
eventually
> > (one of the VW problems).
> > >
> > > If you do not want to crimp - and they are reasons for doing this -
use
> > screw terminals, like Euro Barrier strips (Radio Shack has them).
> > >
> > > And now if you still do want to solder: the right way to do it is:
> > >
> > > 1. Heat up one wire, than let solder melt on it (the wire, not the
> iron),
> > make sure it soaks through
> > > 2. Do the same thing for the other wire, or the part it is supposed to
> go
> > on.
> > > 3. Now join the two presoldered part and touch them with the iron so
> that
> > the solder in both parts melts into one piece.
> > >
> > > Remember, you want to solder the parts together not glue them with
> solder.
> > If you are done and it still looks like to separate parts - heat it up
> again
> > and redo it.
> > >
> > > Marcus
> > > (certified Radio- and TV-technician)
> > >
> > > >>> "Simmons, Reid W" <reid.w.simmons@intel.com> 7/12/00 20:02:29 >>>
> > >
> > > No it truly isn't rocket science but about half of all those I have
> > > encountered in the workplace over the years who have been trained and
> > > believe they can solder produce some really awful results.
> > >
> > > Although I never personally liked wire-wrap it did prove to be
superior
> to
> > > soldering and properly done crimps can be too especially when compared
> to
> > > bad soldering.
> > >
> > > Reid
> > > '79 Spitfire (original owner)
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: John & Tracy Knox [mailto:jknox@erie.net]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 4:27 PM
> > > To: spitfires@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Soldering wire
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Just saw the post and had to reply. Soldering wire is not rocket
> science.
> > > I can show anyone how to solder in a couple of minutes. Heck, the
> > > directions in most soldering irons are pretty good. I see way too
many
> > > crimp on connectors. Or the even worse squeeze EZ connectors. If the
> > wires
> > > are worth putting together for more than five minutes it's best to
just
> > > solder them.
> > >
> > > John
> > >
> > >
> > >
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