Terry, I remmeber about a year or so ago doing this.
With the pins tapped out (using an old sawn off nail of teh right
diameter) and the bearing etc removed from teh pivot arm, I put it on my
workmate and drove teh beraing out using a 1.25 inch socket. They using
say "using a brass drift of appropriate size". To me that just means
something round and hard like a socket that's about the right size to
spread the load evenly and not do any damage. Similar instructions in
the Haynes. Sockets are relaively cheap and can take a lot of abuse. In
my case no damage done and the perfect tool given my limited tool box.
It's been fine for the last year and a half! Also FYI I replaced the
bronze pivot pin sleeves with ones for some US car door ones. Just get
the right inside and outside diameters. One was gone and the other was
on the way out.
Hope that helps.
Alan
Terry Thompson wrote:
> In my "factory manual" to renew the clutch throw-out
>bearing the instruction says to remove the sleave
>assembly from the pivot housing (I don't remember the
>exact nomenclature) and to 'remove the bearing from
>the sleave'. - Um...are we supposed to be born with
>the knowledge of how to remove a pressed-on bearing?
>
> Do they assume you have a hydraulic press for this
>process, or is there some trick to getting that
>bearing off of the sleave? (e.g. with a hammer or gear
>puller)
>
>-Terry
>(I'm not sure how I'd use a gear puller either... But
>since they've got a bit of heft, I figure I could just
>use it to beat on the sleave until it lets go of the bearing.)
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