Hi Paul,
Didn't have the bearing caps resized. This was a low mileage engine that
just needed the crank polished and new standard size bearings. All of the
machine work on this engine was done by the previous owner who never ran
the engine. I purchased the engine and a rusty car from him. I took the
whole engine apart, had the measurements checked, ordered a new set of
pistons since the old set didn't match, put in all new bearings, camshaft,
lifters, oil and water pumps, gaskets, etc.
My first mistake was not getting the dizzy drive spindle in the correct
spot. I lost some time to that mix up. Now it looks like I have to pull the
engine and try to figure out where this is coming from. The oil pump is
definately a candidate, I guess the rear plate will have to come off the
engine also (what a drag.........)
When you say you have a rear seal kit, does that mean you have a kit for sale?
Thanks,
Robert (who's thinking about a Miata test drive because even if this engine
gets fixed there's still the rust through, the brakes, the hubs, the
wheels, etc., etc...........)
_______
At 8:08 PM -0500 2/19/99, Paul A Asgeirsson wrote:
>Hi Robert,
>
>50 miles is hardly a break in but if you are loosing that much oil there
>really seams to be something amiss besides blowby.
>
>A question comes to mind: Did you by any chance have the main bearing
>caps resized? If you answer yes, I'll fill in the details of the
>question. You aren't even sure it's coming from the rear main at this
>point. Could be coming from the oil pump vover not sealing well. That
>too is pressurized from the cam oil lubricant and should always drain
>back to inside the block. The gasket for the oil pump may be on wrong.
>Now how would I know that problem? The need to pinpoint the leak is
>obvious, but it could be from more than one place.
>
>I also have a rear main seal kit that works well if the instructions are
>followed closely. It isn't a positive lip seal but really gets the parts
>close to the crank. Been using that on my rebuilds for over 20 years.
>
>In the meantime, get the engine breathing opened up so there is no
>buildup of crankcase pressure.
>
>Paul
>Morriservice
>PAsgeirsson@juno.com
>
>On Fri, 19 Feb 1999 18:56:51 -0500 robert weeks <robert@woozy.com>
>writes:
>>Hi,
>>
>>I just went out in the rain and checked this out. There is some
>>puffing out
>>of the oil filler hole in the valve cover. Nothing drastic, but it is
>>definately not sucking air in. How long do the rings take to seat
>>themselves? I've only put 50 miles on this engine so far, and the
>>amount of
>>oil leaking out seems really out of hand.
>>
>>I was told to not disturb the top half of the rear seal by a number of
>>pretty reliable sources, which is exactly what I did. When I bolted
>>down
>>the crank mains this seal looked to be aligned and good. Why would so
>>much
>>oil be coming out?
>>
>>If I drill and tap the Weber manifold to add a PCV valve does it
>>matter
>>which side of the U shaped manifold I do it to? It's either got to be
>>on
>>the #1 - #2 side or the #3 - #4 side.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Robert
>>
>
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