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RE: Quarter Panel Beading

To: "'spridgets@autox.team.net'" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Quarter Panel Beading
From: Daniel Thompson <dthompson@gbc.ca>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 09:28:52 -0500
Reply-to: Daniel Thompson <dthompson@gbc.ca>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
Hey Leo, that's cheating! Real men drill out the spot welds, all one
million of them. By current concours standards you automatically get
1000 points deducted :^)

Daniel T.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Leo S. [SMTP:ldsp@flash.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 9:52 PM
> To:   Ulix Goettsch; Jay Bourgraf
> Cc:   Spridgets
> Subject:      Re: Quarter Panel Beading
> 
> Well nobody else wants to speak so I will tell you about the method
> that was
> used on my 60 Bugeye. The beading was rusting from inside of it and
> had no
> other rust on the car. In order to remove the the beading you would
> have to
> drill out the spot welds which hold the panels together. They are
> about one
> inch apart and would make swiss cheese of the joining flange so the
> shop I
> had do the bodywork ground off the beading, blasted , chemically
> treated the
> seam and then cut off the bottom of the T that is on the beading. They
> then
> drilled a small hole every inch and tig welded the beading to the
> body, then
> they mig welded the holes closed. Quite labor intensive and expensive
> but no
> more rust problems ever as the new beading was stainless. There is
> another
> method of using solder to attach it to the body but they nor I was
> comfortable with that method. e-mail privately for more details.
> 
> Leo
> 

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