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Re: Quarter Panel Beading

To: "Daniel Thompson" <dthompson@gbc.ca>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Quarter Panel Beading
From: "Leo S." <ldsp@flash.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 20:00:26 -0600
Reply-to: "Leo S." <ldsp@flash.net>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
No Daniel, real men drill out all the spot welds on the bonnet and then
realign everything!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Thompson <dthompson@gbc.ca>
To: 'spridgets@autox.team.net' <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 8:33 AM
Subject: RE: Quarter Panel Beading


>Hey Leo, that's cheating! Real men drill out the spot welds, all one
>million of them. By current concours standards you automatically get
>1000 points deducted :^)
>
>Daniel T.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Leo S. [SMTP:ldsp@flash.net]
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 9:52 PM
>> To: Ulix Goettsch; Jay Bourgraf
>> Cc: Spridgets
>> Subject: Re: Quarter Panel Beading
>>
>> Well nobody else wants to speak so I will tell you about the method
>> that was
>> used on my 60 Bugeye. The beading was rusting from inside of it and
>> had no
>> other rust on the car. In order to remove the the beading you would
>> have to
>> drill out the spot welds which hold the panels together. They are
>> about one
>> inch apart and would make swiss cheese of the joining flange so the
>> shop I
>> had do the bodywork ground off the beading, blasted , chemically
>> treated the
>> seam and then cut off the bottom of the T that is on the beading. They
>> then
>> drilled a small hole every inch and tig welded the beading to the
>> body, then
>> they mig welded the holes closed. Quite labor intensive and expensive
>> but no
>> more rust problems ever as the new beading was stainless. There is
>> another
>> method of using solder to attach it to the body but they nor I was
>> comfortable with that method. e-mail privately for more details.
>>
>> Leo
>>
>


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