I do basically the same thing. Phosphoric acid will dissolve the rust and
you can use a wet sponge to wipe up. You really shouldn't paint over the
dried film or the black stuck. if you have crusted rust, you will still
have active rust underneath it. Best bet if you want to be thorough as
fast, is wire brush as much as possible and then let the phosphoric acid do
it's work. I remove ALL remnants of the rust, otherwise it will keep
growing. I usually primer with Rustoleum or any good primer before the
undercoat though. I recommend you use a rubberized undercoating product
though as it's more durable than the non rubberized type. Also the
rubberized type is paintable and dries faster. I've used Evercoat, 3M,
Marhyde and Bondo. I like the Evercoat best, but it's harder to find, OI
think Bondo second.
Phosphoric acid is available at Home Depot or hardware stores as Jasco Prep
'n Prime. Someone mentioned recently the it's available at food suppliers
in bulk quantity. Use gloves as it will chap your skin.
Gerard
>
>You can get other shapes of wire brush to fit your drill other than a wheel.
>Also have on hand a couple of shapes of manual wire brushes. If you go to a
>paint store, I think Dutch Boy stores have it, there is a product named
>Phos-Phor that is phosphoric-based and is designed to neutralize rust and
>form a black coating over it. After this neutralization, a rinse and dry
>(Very dry), I like to spray the whole thing with rubberized undercoating
>prior to painting it. This not only seals it well, but helps with
>soundproofing a bit. A mechanic friend of mine who has disassembled
>probably hundreds of these cars claims that those that have undercoating on
>the floors have significantly fewer floorboard rust problems on the inside.
>He is also looking at using that spray-in truckbed liner and seems to think
>that might be even better.
>
>--David C.
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