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Linda:
In my humble opinion, you are going through an awful lot of extra
aggravation, some of which will result in big problems, i.e. pushing the
brake pedal with the drum off and therefore not containing the expanding
cylinders. As I recommended a few emails ago, Speed Bleeders do away
with many of the issues you have been experiencing. Install them, crack
one open or even all of them at the same time, put a tube on them, catch
the overflow in a container, open the cap, pump the brake pedal by
yourself, check occasionally for low level in master cylinder, re-pump
the pedal, check for crud in the containers, close them back up. Done!
I've used them on both my '72 Midget for 30 years and my '67 Midget
vintage race car for almost 30 years. I bled the brakes on the race car
very frequently, of course. No problems. Almost all the racers I know
use them because of their reliability, ease of use and effectiveness. As
you can see, I am a believer! I don't like the idea of pressurizing the
system more than what happens with a pedal push. I have never heard any
complaints with Speed Bleeders. They also work on the clutch slave cylinder.
Make sure you look at the diagramsof the orientation of the brake shoes
and the return springsin your Haynes manual or on line. If the shoes are
not positioned correctly or the springs are oriented wrong or hooked
into the wrong hole in the shoe, you'll have major problems. Also make
sure the adjuster and the two wedges are not worn and are free and
clear. Use Brake-Clean. Test their operation before you reassemble the
whole system. The hand brake bracket positioning is also critical.
I do hope you have a Haynes manual or equivalent to help you figure it out.
Remember - your life depends on the brake system working correctly. Good
luck.
Bob Spruck
On 6/29/2019 8:49 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets wrote:
> Mike,
> That makes a lot of sense, what size is that cap and are they standard?
>
> Now I see why I have all that air and blew out that wheel cylinder, I
> had the drum off when I bleed it. Whoops getting back to the books and
> school of hard knocks. What a mistake I made.
> Linda
>
> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27 AM Mike Myers <mdmyersct@gmail.com
>
> Lin,
>
> If you press on the brake pedal with the shoes and springs missing
> that wheel cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may
> blow out past the seal. You may want to disconnect brake line from
> that cylinder and cap it off so pressure will build up to the
> other wheels and give you some brakes to move it around
>
> Mike Myers
>
> On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets
>
>> Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to the
>> Mityvac pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose
>> to the vac it was better but too late too much air got in. Yes I
>> turned the adjuster to clear the pads as I do understand how to
>> adjust that screw. Although when I get all my new parts I'll
>> require a list to learn that adjustment.
>>
>> Three new questions:
>>
>> 1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the
>> drum back on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press
>> the brake peddle will I brake anything? Will the calipers up
>> front and rear passengers pads stop the car so I can use engine
>> power to move it and not hurt my back?
>>
>> 2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy another
>> for temporary use till Gerard's parts arrive? Victoria British
>> catalog lists several sizes as per engine size & I did not
>> install these but I do have an upgraded 1275 and front disc
>> brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (see pics attached).
>>
>> 3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate
>> but with wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to
>> inspect as I recall doing this before with my Spitfire back in
>> the day and I press the pads in to get back on the disc.
>>
>> Again thanks for all your help Lester and to all the List,
>> Linda
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 8:51 AM JMFangio <oldsaabguy@comcast.net
>>
>> First, using your â??oh so shittyâ?? Mityvac, you did put some
>> grease around the nipple being bled right? Itâ??s important as
>> air will come in through the threads. In fact air coming in
>> is most likely from there or from the master if you ran out
>> of fluid. I havenâ??t had much luck with Mityvacs either FWIW.
>>
>> Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.
>>
>> Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are
>> putting back on needs to be all the way in, second getting
>> the shoes aligned perfectly to get the drum back on takes a
>> little fiddling, if there is rust on the edge of the drum
>> (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that wonâ??t help
>> things.
>>
>> Lastly, the wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.
>>
>> Lester
>>
>>
>>> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> List,
>>> I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the
>>> good news, yes just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad
>>> news of not being successful which seems to be my biggest
>>> problem being "defeated" when working on any car project
>>> especially a Spridget.
>>>
>>> While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I
>>> wanted to get my Spridget out of the driveway so I can get
>>> the VW bus out of the garage and in turn get my motorcycle
>>> out to ride with my older brother as he will be leaving in 8
>>> days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our
>>> family in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.
>>>
>>> I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty"
>>> Mityvac bleeder device as the brakes were hard but went to
>>> the floor after holding for longer periods of time. I
>>> cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with Brakcleen and
>>> was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for
>>> that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose
>>> to the Mityvac container which was sucking air and no clamp
>>> could control it on the drivers rear wheel cylinder but at
>>> least it was clear. Then I went to the passengers side rear,
>>> some air although not as much, then off to the passenger
>>> front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006)
>>> and it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front
>>> caliper. When I was done with the messy job with continuous
>>> filling of the MC I still didn't have a firm peddle and
>>> somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes don't fix
>>> what is not broken).
>>>
>>> I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected
>>> my hose would not keep a seal to the container or the brake
>>> nipple. I decided to bleed the way I was successful with the
>>> VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push peddle hold peddle
>>> with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a
>>> sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers
>>> wheel cylinder which now I know was bad too so that I should
>>> be grateful for. I was unable to get the massive amounts of
>>> air out of the line now and have a very squishy peddle.
>>>
>>> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid
>>> Mityvac again and now I can't get the drum on the shitty
>>> drivers rear wheel as the pads aren't lining up to get the
>>> drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller to remove the
>>> drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After
>>> tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of
>>> alignment to get the drum on the spring popped out (long
>>> spring has a spring coil on ether side and length of of rod
>>> separating both half's). I got so fed up last night I just
>>> cleaned up and hope for some advice.
>>>
>>> Questions:
>>> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put
>>> the drum back on then the rear wheel so I can push the car
>>> without breaking anything? I'll assume yes.
>>>
>>> 2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to
>>> the street under it own power and brakes is to try and buy a
>>> rear wheel cylinder locally fast to replace the leaker as a
>>> temporary fix while waiting for the good parts from Gerard
>>> then I can get my LBC into the garage and work through the
>>> night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>>>
>>> 3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when
>>> bleeding or put it back on during the bleeding procedure?
>>>
>>> Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to
>>> succeed with this on my own and most importantly understand
>>> my LBC.
>>> Linda
>>> 62 California Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
>>> ------------------------
>>>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/oldsaabguy@comcast.net
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
>> <IMG_1589.JPG>
>> <IMG_1590.JPG>
>> ------------------------
>>
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/mdmyersct@gmail.com
>
>
>
> --
> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/raspruck@gmail.com
--------------32058753C55056E0085878B7
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<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Linda:</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">In my humble opinion, you are
going through an awful lot of extra aggravation, some of which
will result in big problems, i.e. pushing the brake pedal with
the drum off and therefore not containing the expanding
cylinders. As I recommended a few emails ago, Speed Bleeders
do away with many of the issues you have been experiencing.
Install them, crack one open or even all of them at the same
time, put a tube on them, catch the overflow in a container,
open the cap, pump the brake pedal by yourself, check
occasionally for low level in master cylinder, re-pump the
pedal, check for crud in the containers, close them back up.
Done! I've used them on both my '72 Midget for 30 years and my
'67 Midget vintage race car for almost 30 years. I bled the
brakes on the race car very frequently, of course. No
problems. Almost all the racers I know use them because of
their reliability, ease of use and effectiveness. As you can
see, I am a believer! I don't like the idea of pressurizing
the system more than what happens with a pedal push. I have
never heard any complaints with Speed Bleeders. They also work
on the clutch slave cylinder.</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">M</font></font><font size="+1"><font
face="Arial">ake sure you look at the diagrams</font></font><font
size="+1"><font face="Arial"><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">
</font></font>of the orientation of the brake shoes and the
return springs</font></font><font size="+1"><font face="Arial"><font
size="+1"><font face="Arial"> </font></font><font size="+1"><font
face="Arial"><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">in your
Haynes manual or on line</font></font></font></font>.
If the shoes are not positioned correctly or the springs are
oriented wrong or hooked into the wrong hole in the shoe,
you'll have major problems. Also make sure the adjuster and
the two wedges are not worn and are free and clear. Use
Brake-Clean. Test their operation before you reassemble the
whole system. The hand brake bracket positioning is also
critical.</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial"> I do hope you have a Haynes
manual or equivalent to help you figure it out.</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Remember - your life depends
on the brake system working correctly. Good luck.</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Bob Spruck<br>
</font></font></p>
<p><font size="+1"><font face="Arial"></font></font>On 6/29/2019
8:49 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets wrote:<br>
</p>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAL0QtVdRsMnFqOpaJYO4STavQZcPj=fkHL9ET3Zt0FsSVir4CA@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Mike,
<div>That makes a lot of sense, what size is that cap and are
they standard? </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Now I see why I have all that air and blew out that wheel
cylinder, I had the drum off when I bleed it. Whoops getting
back to the books and school of hard knocks. What a mistake I
made.
<div>Linda</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27
AM Mike Myers <<a href="mailto:mdmyersct@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true">mdmyersct@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="auto">
<div dir="ltr">Lin,</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">If you press on the brake pedal with the
shoes and springs missing that wheel cylinder will have no
resistance and the piston may blow out past the seal. You
may want to disconnect brake line from that cylinder and
cap it off so pressure will build up to the other wheels
and give you some brakes to move it around </div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">Mike Myers</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via
Spridgets <<a href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried
everything on the hoses to the Mityvac pump and I
never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the
vac it was better but too late too much air got in.
Yes I turned the adjuster to clear the pads as I do
understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I
get all my new parts I'll require a list to learn that
adjustment.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Three new questions:
<div><br>
</div>
<div>1. If I remove these drivers pads & the
spring parts and put the drum back on and wheel to
roll her what could happen if I press the brake
peddle will I brake anything? Will the calipers up
front and rear passengers pads stop the car so I
can use engine power to move it and not hurt my
back?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder
is to buy another for temporary use till Gerard's
parts arrive? Victoria British catalog lists
several sizes as per engine size & I did not
install these but I do have an upgraded 1275 and
front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for
1275 (see pics attached). </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>3. The front calipers are making the front
wheels tight to rotate but with wheels on I can
rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I
recall doing this before with my Spitfire back in
the day and I press the pads in to get back on the
disc. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Again thanks for all your help Lester and to
all the List,</div>
<div>Linda</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 28, 2019
at 8:51 AM JMFangio <<a
href="mailto:oldsaabguy@comcast.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">oldsaabguy@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px
0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div
style="word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">First,
using your â??oh so shittyâ?? Mityvac, you did put
some grease around the nipple being bled right?Â
Itâ??s important as air will come in through the
threads. In fact air coming in is most likely
from there or from the master if you ran out of
fluid. I havenâ??t had much luck with Mityvacs
either FWIW.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the
wheel you are putting back on needs to be all
the way in, second getting the shoes aligned
perfectly to get the drum back on takes a little
fiddling, if there is rust on the edge of the
drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on
) that wonâ??t help things.<br>
<div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Lastly, the wheel cylinders are
inexpensive, get new ones.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Lester</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda
Grunthaner via Spridgets <<a
href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:</div>
<br
class="gmail-m_-8473239586027171283gmail-m_5877765253755109347Apple-interchange-newline">
<div>
<div dir="ltr">List,
<div>I'm waiting for all new parts
from Gerard so that is the good
news, yes just be patient Linda.
Below starts my bad news of not
being successful which seems to be
my biggest problem being "defeated"
when working on any car project
especially a Spridget.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>While I'm waiting for my parts to
be built from Gerard I wanted to get
my Spridget out of the driveway so I
can get the VW bus out of the garage
and in turn get my motorcycle out to
ride with my older brother as he
will be leaving in 8 days for his
cross country Harley Davidson trip
to our family in California. Below
is my hell with brake bleeding.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I decided to continue bleeding
with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac
bleeder device as the brakes were
hard but went to the floor after
holding for longer periods of time.
I cleaned the drums and all the rear
parts with Brakcleen and was very
happy with the results (I should be
grateful for that), I kept getting
air coming from the bleeder and hose
to the Mityvac container which was
sucking air and no clamp could
control it on the drivers rear wheel
cylinder but at least it was clear.
Then I went to the passengers side
rear, some air although not as much,
then off to the passenger front
caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I
got Pinky in 2006) and it seemed
nice and air free then to the
drivers front caliper. When I was
done with the messy job with
continuous filling of the MC I still
didn't have a firm peddle and
somewhat less firm that before I
started, (yes don't fix what is not
broken). </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I went to the store got new hose
1/4" clear as I suspected my hose
would not keep a seal to the
container or the brake nipple. I
decided to bleed the way I was
successful with the VW bus, a tube
in a jar of fluid push peddle hold
peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then
shut off the nipple. It was a sloppy
nightmare as I saw fluid trickle
from the drivers wheel cylinder
which now I know was bad too so that
I should be grateful for. I was
unable to get the massive amounts of
air out of the line now and have a
very squishy peddle.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I cleaned everything up after
returning to using the stupid
Mityvac again and now I can't get
the drum on the shitty drivers rear
wheel as the pads aren't lining up
to get the drum on it. Note: I had
to use a wheel puller to remove the
drum (with now leaky cylinder) in
the first place. After tapping with
my lead hammer on the ads to get
some kind of alignment to get the
drum on the spring popped out (long
spring has a spring coil on ether
side and length of of rod separating
both half's). I got so fed up last
night I just cleaned up and hope for
some advice.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Questions:Â </div>
<div>1. Can I remove the drum pads
from the shitty wheel and put the
drum back on then the rear wheel so
I can push the car without breaking
anything? I'll assume yes. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>2. Can I assume the only way I
can get the car to move to the
street under it own power and brakes
is to try and buy a rear wheel
cylinder locally fast to replace the
leaker as a temporary fix while
waiting for the good parts from
Gerard then I can get my LBC into
the garage and work through the
night when the parts arrive, and get
that bike out too.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>3. Was I supposed to leave the
master cylinder cap off when
bleeding or put it back on during
the bleeding procedure?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks guys for all your
continued support I really want to
succeed with this on my own and most
importantly understand my LBC.</div>
<div>Linda</div>
<div>62 California Sprite w/front
discs "Pinky"</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br clear="all">
<div><br>
</div>
-- <br>
<div dir="ltr"
class="gmail-m_-8473239586027171283gmail-m_5877765253755109347gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr"><span
style="font-size:small">"Pay
if forward" in honor of Frank
Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
------------------------<br>
<br>
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href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";
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<br>
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</div>
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</div>
<br clear="all">
<div><br>
</div>
-- <br>
<div dir="ltr"
class="gmail-m_-8473239586027171283gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr"><span style="font-size:small">"Pay if
forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III,
Spritenut</span><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr"><IMG_1589.JPG></div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr"><IMG_1590.JPG></div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr"><span>------------------------</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span><a href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">spridgets@autox.team.net</a></span><br>
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<br clear="all">
<div><br>
</div>
-- <br>
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr"><span style="font-size:small">"Pay if forward" in
honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut</span><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";>spridgets@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets";>http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
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spridgets@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive
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