Sorry for the delay but the best part of all this frustration is I'm
understanding much much more and guys I truly appreciate all of this
discussion and yes Chuck it is still flat in my driveway.
My biggest fumble was learning from Gerard that I am NOT supposed to
bleed the rear drum wheel cylinders with the drums OFF. I may have
blown that rear cylinder because I pumped with the drum off, YIKES how
embarrassing. All good I'll get back home on Monday and try again
while I wait for all my parts.
Linda
62 California Spridget "Pinky" with lots of non stock parts for 1962 ; )
On 6/29/19, Allen Hefner <lbc77mg@gmail.com> wrote:
> I feel bad for you, doing all this work and not having much success. There
> is only so much of the learning process you can accept before you give up
> and buy a Toyota. ;-(
>
> The best brake job is to do it all, and do it right. You should wait until
> you have a new or properly rebuilt MC, a new or rebuilt proportioning valve
> (often forgotten), new front calipers, new rear wheel cylinders, new flex
> hoses, and the proper pads, shoes, rotors and drums (which I would also buy
> new). And a brand new bottle of brake fluid (discussed at length, earlier).
>
> Lay them all out on a sheet or drop cloth to keep them clean. Then get to
> work, and clean as you go. Start at the front and work your way thru the
> system to the rear. Bleed the brakes only after everything else is replaced
> and in bristol fashion.
>
> I hope your driveway is level. Spridgets don't weigh much. Get your brother
> to help you push the car to a safe place so you can access the garage
> stuff, then push it back into the garage and Bob's your uncle. If you are
> on a hill, this may not work. You may need a winch...or AAA.
>
> You will feel better about the job if you have everything ready to go and
> can complete it in the proper steps. One more thing, buy a cheep cube
> 'fridge for the garage and stock it with Guinness. Just one stout after
> working hard on an LBC will make you feel good about yourself.
>
> Allen Hefner
> Norristown, PA
> Sun City Center, FL
>
> *Current:*
> 2016 Subaru outback somewhere
> 2006 Chebbie
> *Former:*
> 1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series III
> 1967 Triumph TR4A IRS
> 1964 VW Type I
> 1967 VW Type II
> 1967 Rover 2000TC
> 1977 MG Midget (Sniff!)
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:50 AM Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
> spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Mike,
>> That makes a lot of sense, what size is that cap and are they standard?
>>
>> Now I see why I have all that air and blew out that wheel cylinder, I had
>> the drum off when I bleed it. Whoops getting back to the books and school
>> of hard knocks. What a mistake I made.
>> Linda
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 10:27 AM Mike Myers <mdmyersct@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Lin,
>>>
>>> If you press on the brake pedal with the shoes and springs missing that
>>> wheel cylinder will have no resistance and the piston may blow out past
>>> the
>>> seal. You may want to disconnect brake line from that cylinder and cap
>>> it
>>> off so pressure will build up to the other wheels and give you some
>>> brakes
>>> to move it around
>>>
>>> Mike Myers
>>>
>>> On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
>>> spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to the Mityvac
>>> pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the vac it
>>> was
>>> better but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to
>>> clear
>>> the pads as I do understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I
>>> get
>>> all my new parts I'll require a list to learn that adjustment.
>>>
>>> Three new questions:
>>>
>>> 1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the drum
>>> back on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake
>>> peddle
>>> will I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers
>>> pads
>>> stop the car so I can use engine power to move it and not hurt my back?
>>>
>>> 2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy another for
>>> temporary use till Gerard's parts arrive? Victoria British catalog lists
>>> several sizes as per engine size & I did not install these but I do have
>>> an
>>> upgraded 1275 and front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275
>>> (see
>>> pics attached).
>>>
>>> 3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but
>>> with wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I
>>> recall doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press
>>> the
>>> pads in to get back on the disc.
>>>
>>> Again thanks for all your help Lester and to all the List,
>>> Linda
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 8:51 AM JMFangio <oldsaabguy@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> First, using your â??oh so shittyâ?? Mityvac, you did put some grease
>>>> around
>>>> the nipple being bled right? Itâ??s important as air will come in
>>>> through
>>>> the threads. In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from
>>>> the
>>>> master if you ran out of fluid. I havenâ??t had much luck with Mityvacs
>>>> either FWIW.
>>>>
>>>> Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.
>>>>
>>>> Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back
>>>> on needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned
>>>> perfectly
>>>> to get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on
>>>> the
>>>> edge of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that
>>>> wonâ??t
>>>> help things.
>>>>
>>>> Lastly, the wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.
>>>>
>>>> Lester
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
>>>> spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> List,
>>>> I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes
>>>> just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of not being successful
>>>> which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on
>>>> any
>>>> car project especially a Spridget.
>>>>
>>>> While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get
>>>> my Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the
>>>> garage
>>>> and in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he
>>>> will
>>>> be leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our
>>>> family in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.
>>>>
>>>> I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder
>>>> device as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for
>>>> longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with
>>>> Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for
>>>> that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the
>>>> Mityvac
>>>> container which was sucking air and no clamp could control it on the
>>>> drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went to
>>>> the
>>>> passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off to the
>>>> passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006)
>>>> and
>>>> it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. When I
>>>> was
>>>> done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I still
>>>> didn't
>>>> have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes
>>>> don't
>>>> fix what is not broken).
>>>>
>>>> I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose
>>>> would
>>>> not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to
>>>> bleed
>>>> the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push
>>>> peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It
>>>> was a
>>>> sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder
>>>> which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was
>>>> unable
>>>> to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very
>>>> squishy peddle.
>>>>
>>>> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac
>>>> again and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as
>>>> the
>>>> pads aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel
>>>> puller to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place.
>>>> After tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of
>>>> alignment
>>>> to get the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil
>>>> on
>>>> ether side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed
>>>> up
>>>> last night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.
>>>>
>>>> Questions:
>>>> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum
>>>> back on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking
>>>> anything? I'll assume yes.
>>>>
>>>> 2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street
>>>> under it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder
>>>> locally fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for
>>>> the
>>>> good parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work
>>>> through the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>>>>
>>>> 3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or
>>>> put it back on during the bleeding procedure?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed
>>>> with
>>>> this on my own and most importantly understand my LBC.
>>>> Linda
>>>> 62 California Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
>>>> ------------------------
>>>>
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>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
>>>
>>> <IMG_1589.JPG>
>>>
>>> <IMG_1590.JPG>
>>>
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>>
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>> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
>> ------------------------
>>
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>>
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>
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