>around the outside of the easy out, (but still in the stud,) very
difficult--
>if not impossible.
>
>I also tried whacking the easy out with another punch, hoping it would
break
>more, but it didn't.
>
>I'm gonna ask some machine shop people about this tomorrow, but I
figured I
>could ask you all tonight .. .
>Any ideas on how to get that stud and easy out . . . out?
>
>A diesel mechaic said "try torching it out, course you gotta be
careful not
>to mess up the head . . ."
>
>no kidding.
>
>Thanks again.
>
>Scott Tilton
>
>
Hi Scott (and All)
in my experience with broken taps (essentially the same thing) here is
what has helped in the past. This takes a lot of patience, alot of
GOOD drill bitts, and a drill press.
1. grind or smooth the broken part or the easy out (use a dremmel if
it is broke below the surface.
2. use your punch dead center on the newly smoothed surface of the easy
out.
3. get the smallest HARDES drill bit you can find and drill dead center
into the easy out. Work yourself progressivly up untill there in not
much easyout left. This will take time, patience, and a can of 3-in-1
oil to keep the bitts from getting to hot.
4. get a backwards easy out.... JUST JOKING! ;-)
5. find out what size\thread tap you will need to redo the stud hole
and buy appropriate drill bit.
6. by the time you get done with the easyout you will probably nee a
jig to keep you bit from drifting when redrill the stud hole (drill
press or not) so you will need 2-pieces of 1/4" steel plate by lets say
around 6"x6" and a piece of 1"thick plywood the same size as your
steel.
7. make a tree sandwich and drill a hole through it
8. attach you jig to the block (it may help to make it a little larger
and drill other holes in it so you can use the surrounding studs to
clamp it down with. Be sure to have you hole lined up exactly where
the stud needs to go.
9. drill, tap, reassemble, enjoy a topless weekend!
Just a sugestion!
Wish you the best of luck!
David Clark
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