Text item:
I'll add my $0.02 to the thread. For aluminum cylinders, I use a piece of
Scotchbrite pushed into a large, long cotter pin which is then put into a
variable speed drill motor. I wet the cyclinder and scotchbrite with brake
fluid and hone away. I've done this with both slave and master cyclinders and
it works well. If a cyclinder is beyond repair and too expensive to replace,
there's always brass or SS sleeving, which will fix it for good.
Mike
On Tue, 14 Nov 1995, Pete Watson wrote:
> ......................................................................
> You should be able to find brake cylinder hones at any auto supply
> store, that is any REAL auto supply store, the kind that supplies the
> trade. There is also one in the J. C. Whitney catalog for about $7.
> Proceed with caution.
>
And I echo a hearty "caution" as well. These hones are made for cast iron
brake cylinders which can take abuse by a hone and still have a faint
speck of hope for ever sealing again.
Most (in some cases all) of the cylinders on old English cars are
alumineeeum, and will not stand a chance of sealing once ground with an
auto parts store hone.
If I have a cylinder with light scoring, and I'm too cheap and lazy
to get a new one (which is often the case), I use some 600 or 1200
sandpaper wrapped around a rag over a flat-bladed screwdriver to "hone"
the cylinder. I use a light oil, and finish with some coarse polishing
compound.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@lestat.scs.wsu.edu
Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
Dept. of Mechanical and Materials Engineering
Washington State University, Pullman, Wa.
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
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Subject: Re: MC rebuilds
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
To: Pete Watson <pwatson@ix.netcom.com>
From: Greg Meboe <meboe@lestat.scs.wsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 20:22:31 -0800 (PST)
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