On Thu, 2 Jan 1997 12:55:16 -0800 "Michael Grey"<mike@hmsgroup.com>
writes:
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>I am the original owner of a 73 TR6. I'm also new to the list and
>would appreciate some advice concerning clutch hydraulics. I believe
>the locking bolt which holds the fork to the cross shaft on my
>clutch has sheared, I suspect this because the clutch slave cylinder
>piston does not retract when the clutch is depressed and will
>actually extend far enough to completely come out of the cylinder
>body when repeatedly engaged. Other symptoms are (1) I can't change
>gears (2) when started in gear, the clutch spins under light power
>loads. I haven't pulled the clutch yet to verify this theory.
>
>My local British car shop (SF Bay Area) suggested that I let him
>weld the fork to the cross shaft to preclude future problems, says
>he does it all the time. Is this a good idea or should I just
>replace the pin once I figure out how to extract it from the shaft?
>
>Also are there variations on clutch slave cylinders for the TR6, the
>original one I removed was mounted by passing the cylinder body
>through the mounting bracket, [as depicted in my work shop manual
>and Haynes]. The replacement cylinder I got from MOSS appears to
>bolt on the other side of the mounting bracket which doesn't look
>right. Did I get the wrong part? Is this what could be causing one
>of my problems?
>
>Any help would be appreciated.
>------------------------
>Michael S. Grey
>mike@hmsgroup.com
>73 TR6
>
>
>
Some good advice was given on this list recently. They suggested
drilling the fork and shaft and putting in a 1/4 inch roll pin. I took
this advice and put in a new taper pin, too. Hope it works.
Mark Anderton
1972 Triumph TR6 (daily driver)
1984 Jaguar XJ6 (2 ea - some people never learn)
1966 Morris Minor (everything a car should be)
1971 Land Rover
1967 Daimler V8 Saloon
1958 Velocette MSS (500cc single)
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