Michael:
I, too have a 73 TR6, (but in '73 I was only 5 years old, so I couldn't
afford to buy one new!!) Anyway, the TR I have, (for 10 years now) has
given me PLENTY of clutch troubles. The DPO (DUMB previous owner) welded
the fork to the cross shaft, which, functionally may not be all that bad,
except that he welded it on in the wrong position! I also had many, many
hydraulic problems, about which I've consulted the experts aboard this
list.
Welding the fork on, to me, is what I call "Mickey-Mouse"... And even if it
works mechanically, which apparently it does, there is one consequence that
is negative... you will never be able to remove the release shaft and fork
in the future without destroying them! (And there ARE reasons why you may
need to remove them.) With all the clutch troubles I've had, I've never
had a pin failure. However, every time I've been into the bellhousing, it
seems that I've replaced that pin, as a matter of course, with another of
the "heavy duty" variety offered by either Moss or TRF. Adding the roll
pin to reinforce the assembly sounds like the only "proper" way to modify
this assembly, and had I known of it last time I had to fiddle with it, I'd
have done it!
Incidentally, you ought to replace, also, the little pins in the ends of
the fork. They are pushed in from the outsides of the arms of the fork,
and after they're pushed "home", then the rest of the pin which remains is
peened out flat to fasten it in place.
Here are the instructions for the roll pin, verbatim, given by a member of
the list only a month or so ago:
>The pin between the clutch operating cross shaft and fork will most
>frequently >fail, causing a failure to free the clutch,(see previous
>comment about checking >the slave cyl. pushrod for movement) or a harder
>pedal effort. Whilst no one is >looking, take your copper hammer and tap
>(understatement) the shaft arm back & >forth until the pin fails and you
>can get the pieces apart. I have never broken >the parts this way, but be
>advised that new ones are expensive.
>THE SOLUTION: after installing a new standard pin, drill the fork &
>shaft assy. @ 90 degrees from the pin & off to the side of it & install a
>roll >pin (1/4" min) to better tie the fork to the shaft. Do not use a
>roll pin that >is too long or it will be hard to get out later. Safety
>wire the pin through >its I D. This is even strong enough for an AP
>formula 2, twin plate clutch, >and much less trouble and expense than the
>slave cylinder in the bell housing >idea. The cross shaft bushings (if
>worn) in the bell housing are easy to tap >in and out, and you can use two
>of the later(TR6) ones per side to cover wear >on the cross shaft.
Good luck to you!!
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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