Martin,
> Double the volts, double the gap, eh? Seems to make sense. For the moment,
> I am gonna presume the ACCEL coil is producing 40K volts -- hell, it*s BIG
> enough. There is a ceramic encased resistor in the circuitry, mounted on the
> siderail that encompasses the engine. I seem to recall in my reading
>somewhere
> that the GT6 might have a ballast resistor incorporated ºin the loom,º as they
> say, but I am not sure where ... I will check for it. But you say that I
>should check
> the voltage at the coil by ªremov(ing) the supply wireª -- that is, the
>negative
> lead from the resistor, and grounding my voltmeter on the block?
Does one of the wires from the ACCEL resistor go to the "+" terminal of
the coil? I'm assuming that it does. Anyway remove the spade connector
from the "+" coil terminal. Check the voltage at that connector, while
the engine is cranking, and with the switch returned to the "run"
position. During cranking, you'll want the full battery voltage, around
12.5v, and in the normal run mode, around 7-9V. Anything less than 7v.
and I'll bet you're double resistored. Check the voltage and let me know
what you find.
Basically, what you're trying to avoid is having the normally ballasted
harness wiring feeding the aftermarket resistor ballast, yielding 6v.
or less to the coil during normal running conditions. You need to remove
the connecton at the coil to eliminate variables created "downstream" by
the coil and points or electronic ignition.
Hope that helps,
Charlie
>
|