When I was rallying (and fabricating my own speedometer and mileage odometer
systems) I would ONLY use Speedometer Cable Lube, that black,
thin,graphite-type stuff, inside the cable (available at auto parts stores).
NOT TOO MUCH THOUGH. Alignment of the cable sheath at both ends is critical
for smooth running too -- make sure its correct (especially at the instrument
panel end, give it a nice straight run just before the tach).
These days we have available synthetic greases that are expensive but do a
great job on the ends as far as vibration control. I use a product called
Tribolube, which is the consistency of wheel bearing grease. (I get it from
work :-), but I understand it costs about $15 US for a tube the size of Krazy
I first got some from my Ford parts guy, who just gave me a dollop after I
explained what I needed it for, and didn't want to buy the whole can!!
That said, I assume your new cable is fully seated. Often they feel OK, but
will engage better after a mile or two. Maybe yours came loose.
P.S. clean out the oil & WD40 you put in there, and re-lube it with the proper
'79 Spitfire FM96062
'88 Lotus Esprit
'88 Mustang 5.0
Succasunna (no joke), NJ USA
> I replaced my tach cable after it had started screaming and grinding with the
> tach needle flying out of control up, down, and then mostly down.
> My new tach cable worked just fine with no noise or problems for about 300
> miles. Now it's starting to make noise (grinding/whining) and the tach needle
> is oscillating slightly. I installed it using a bit of light oil. When the
> noise started it cleaned it and used a little bearing grease with no
> improvement. Cleaned it again and used WD40 with no improvement.
> The noise clearly comes from the cable (and you can feel the grinding
> vibrations in the outer cable housing) so I don't think it's my tach causing
> the problem.
> Any sage advice? I'm willing to pop for another cable, but I don't want to do
> this every 300 mi.
> Keith Baer
> '72 TR6