Well I guess I could cite a number of reasons why I decided to do it:
1. That's the way the original ones (rubber, not poly) were.
2. It seems (to me) a cleaner and more elegant approach - why cut
something when it's not necessary?
3. A hack saw will actually remove even more material, if I was to cut
it I would use a sharp knife.
4. If I wanted to remove them it would be cause I was replacing them and
did not wish to reuse the old ones so that "ease of removal" is moot
(again just imo).
Since others on the list have obviously cut theirs to install them I
assume it works. But I like mine uncut just fine so to each his own I
guess :-)
Peter Zaborski
76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
Calgary AB Canada
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jhdavis6@juno.com [SMTP:jhdavis6@juno.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 1997 4:30 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Poly Bushings
>
> Peter,
> I'm sure this works, but why go to the trouble? One may simply cut
> through the bushing with a hack saw in one minute or less, place the
> cut
> side of the bushing in the bottom of the "U" part of the bracket
> (where
> it can't do anything but be compressed) and bolt 'er up. And should
> one
> choose to remove the bushing at a later date will be a much, much
> easier
> task to perform.
> Just MHO,
> Jim Davis
> Fortson, GA
> '75 TR6 CF38690UO
> '75 TR6 CF37325U
> On Tue, 19 Aug 1997 09:18:58 -0600 Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>
> writes:
> >JSTR11B,
> >
> >The tip I posted concerned the poly bushings which fit around the TR6
> >sway bar (other cars' sway bars may be similar).
> >
> >Basically, these two bushings are cylindrical in shape and they are
> >designed to fit around the bar. Problem is that the ends of the bar
> >are
> >too big for the holes in the cylinders. Or so it seems...
> >
> >Roger Bolick was the original provider of the tip to immerse the
> >bushings in hot water and then fit them over the ends of the bar
> using
> >gloves which will protect your hands from the heat. Here is the
> >procedure I used:
> >
> >1. Once the bar is off the car, I cleaned it until there was no more
> >dirt and crud (wire brush on drill works real - I have no blaster).
> >
> >2. Place a pot of water on your stove and set the temp to bring the
> >water to a boil. Place bushings in the water while it is still cold.
> >
> >3. Once the water starts boiling, let the bushings simmer for about
> >three minutes.
> >
> >4. Spray a little silicone lubricant on the end of the bar you are
> >about
> >to fit the bushing over.
> >
> >5. I used a pair of kitchen tongs to pick the bushings out of the
> >boiling water one at a time.
> >
> >6. Take one bushing and fit it over the end you just prepped witht
> the
> >silicone. It is amazing how they will expand to fit over the end!
> >
> >7. Repeat 4-6 for the other end.
> >
> >This procedure avoids the need to cut the bushings to make them fit
> >(which is what a mechanic might do since he/she does not have the
> time
> >required to go through the boiling procedure). This way you end up
> wth
> >a
> >neater install. I am not claiming that it makes a lot of difference
> if
> >the bushings are not cut but it makes me feel better.
> >
> >So far my bushings have stayed real solid after the heat exposure.
> >Also
> >when you think about it (and look at the bar closely) you will note
> >that
> >the ends which seem so much bigger are just pressed from the original
> >round shape of the middle part of the bar. The ends are not really
> >that
> >much bigger, they just seem to be.
> >
> >Good luck!
> >
> >Peter Zaborski
> >76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
> >Calgary AB Canada
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