I replaced mine with copper tubing. I bought it at Autozone. The kit came with
fittings that matched my 'original I think' brass fittings. It also came with
other fittings as well. I used the new fittings even though they matched my old
ones exactly. I did the loop d loop just before connecting to the engine on the
advice of listers. With the extra length I was able to run the tubing so as to
make it look neater. I'll get the maker and part number if you want it. It
costs about $13. Personally I think although the teflon may hold out longer
than the plastic, it is more subject to oxidation and breakdown than copper. I
just replaced my plastic one after an involuntary oil change ;-). It 'to the
best of my knowledge' lasted 25 years so really any replacement is better than
none. My engine started knocking and I looked at the oil guage and 0 psi so I
killed the motor and pulled over. The old plastic line had a break in it. It
had oil all over the left side of the engine compartment but I consider myself
lucky(you can imagine the mess it would make on a break under the dash with
75psi).
Once again, just replace it, a new one(plastic, copper, teflon, whatever) is
better than risking the involuntary oil change and roadside happiness.
;-)
--
On Wed, 15 Sep 1999 12:07:16 MPRICE wrote:
>
>List
>As my restoration continues I find that I'm a little disheartened by the
>cheesy plastic oil gauge lines that were originally installed. Both the
>current project engine and parts car had broken lines right at the point
>where the fitting is pressed into the tubing. I seem to recall someone
>replacing theirs with a length of copper tubing with a couple of coils to
>account for vibration and engine movement. Here's the questions....can the
>original fittings be used, and if so can they be soldered to copper? (I
>believe they are aluminum.) Different fittings needed? And if so, what size?
>TIA
>Mark
>TR 250s
>'58 MGA
>some 'mercun stuff'
>
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