There I go again - writing more from past experience than from what was
actually being talked about!
When I changed a busted exhaust valve a couple years ago on the TR6, I
refused to remove the head, and instead used a hand tool to compress the
spring (there being 2 on the later TR6 exhaust, thank goodness!). This I
borrowed from the local Jag/LBC garage, and operated with a faucet-like
tensioner once clamped on. To keep the valve from dropping down inside the
chamber, I removed the plug and inserted a 3/8 socket extension. To keep the
valve in place while I re-installed the collets (THAT's the name of those
funny little things!), I used a line of sewing thread tied around the notch
of the valve, and gained tension by tying it off to the hood latch, which
was then directly overhead. I used an extension magnet to help place the
collets in position; once they were in properly, I eased off on the spring
compressor until all was good as new. I then had to remove the sewing thread
with an x-acto knife, which I did completely. Any residual thread would
either burn up or come out in the next oil change anyhow. And all that
without the use of compressed air in the cylinder (but it was a great
argument to buy one, for a while!). Cheers, JD
-----Original Message-----
From: Power British Performance Parts, Inc.
[SMTP:britcars@powerbritish.com]
Sent: September 16, 1999 12:44 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: Valve Spring/Key Removal
Day.John@fin.gc.ca wrote:
> Also be sure to cover the oil journals of the valve head, too -
otherwise
> Day's Rule (formerly Murphy's Law) says there's a good chance the
keeper
> will try to take the roundabout route to the sump!:-) Any opening
acts like
> a magnet for a little part like that!
>
> Cheers, JD
Bob makes note of using a C-clamp type valve spring compressor. To
use this, the head
must already be off the car - but you're point is certainly valid if
you are trying to
change springs with the head on the car.
One of the best techniques I've found to change springs with the
head in place is to
use a variation on the 'rope-trick-for-cylinder-head-removal' but
simply leave the
cyl. head nuts as is in place and rely on the compressed rope to
keep the valve from
dropping - much easier than trying to use air pressure to hold the
valve.
Cheers!
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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1242 E. Ridge Pike on the 'net!
Plymouth Meeting, PA 19462
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>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Power British Performance Parts, Inc.
> [SMTP:britcars@powerbritish.com]
> Sent: September 16, 1999 11:45 AM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: Valve Spring/Key Removal
>
> Robert Van and Ann Cross wrote:
>
> > Listers,
> > This may sound like a rookie question by I need your
assistance.
> I've got a
> > spare TR4 cylinder head that I want to rebuild and use.
I
> purchased the "C
> > Type valve lifter & Spring Compressor" from JC Whintey.
My
> problem is, I
> > can't get the springs to compress in order to remove the
spring
> key. I
> > think I'm using the tool correctly (jaws over the
collar, ratchet
> > handle/shaft placed against the valve head), but I'm
having little
> success.
> > When I squeeze the handle, the "C type" portion of the
tool must
> be giving
> > since the collar and springs aren't compressing.
What's the
> secret?
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Bob Van
> > 1960 TR3A
>
> Bob,
>
> After so many years, the keepers tend to stick. That's a
good thing
> since you don't
> want them to bounce out too easily. Put your valve spring
> compressor on the valve and
> tighten it until the 'C' bends slightly. Cover the valve
spring end
> of the compressor
> with a rag and strike the head of the valve/tool sharply
with a
> rubber or plastic
> mallet. Usually the valve retainer will give right away
and the
> keepers will be still
> in place but now loose. If one should be stubborn, give
another
> crank on the
> compressor, but watch out as usually the keepers tend to
fly if
> cranked too much. The
> rag should catch them, but wear safety goggles anyway.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Regards,
>
> Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6
'79 Spit
>
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Power British Check out Power
British
> 1242 E. Ridge Pike on the
'net!
> Plymouth Meeting, PA 19462
> (610) 270-0505
> http://www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
>
>
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>
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