Jack Radley wrote:
> I have a small hydraulic jack that I have been using to lift my car for
> tire/wheel changes. After changing my oil for the first time last night, it
> seems like jack stands would be a good idea to ease the effort required to
> replace the filter canister, etc.
Jack - I'm sure someone has told you this but never never never get under a
car supported by only a jack... _always_ use jackstands or something to
limit how far the car can drop "in the unlikely event" (to paraphrase the
airline schpeel) that the jack fails. And don't use cinder blocks!
So, not only is a set of jack stands a good idea, I think of it as a
necessity. Anyone that's been to my garage would know this. I have at least
14 solid stands, not the cheepo "split pipe" type - good ones with cast
iron moveable "thingies" and solid formed/welded bases (3/16" or so steel).
Now the kicker - I have had jacks fail without warning, and I won't buy a
cheap jack ever again. I'm lucky - every time I've nearly got "bonked" with
a car, I just happened to not be under the car at the time.
If you put that baby up in the air - put some stands under it before you
venture underneath it. Please. You'll be very dead or seriously injured if
you happen to be under the car _when_ this happens. Note: I did't say _if_.
> What are the proper locations for jack stands on a TR6 (4 corners)?
TR6's are blessed with that lovely frame that goes almost from stem to
stern. If the frame is in good shape, just about anywhere on the frame is a
good spot to use for a jack stand.
Suggestion: Don't buy the cheap version jackstands that are rated at 2.5
tons... get the ones that are rated at 3 tons or more. Why? The frame rails
are something like 3 inches wide on the bottom edge. The bigger jack stands
have a "U" shape to them that is as big or bigger than the frame rails.
With the smaller jackstands, the ends of the "U" that turn up are too
narrow and hang on the frame. The net result is lots of dings and dents in
your frame... if you're a concours person, this would cause incessant loss
of sleep!
So, where to put the jacks??
I use the frame section right at the verticle frame members in the front.
Be careful to make sure you don't catch the inner lower crossmember with
the point on the stand. I've seen holes in that crossmember where the
entire weight of the front of the car on that one point. Yuckeroo. If you
happen to be working toward the very front of the car, then position the
stands just behind the front crossmember.
The reasoning for the front location should be pretty obvious, basically,
you're centering the weight of the car on a jack stand that mimics the
loading of the suspension.
The rear is more troublesome.
The frame rails turn "up" starting right at the differential. If you aren't
on a really level, steady surface, the jackstands can slip or allow the
frame to slip over them. But what I've always done is to try to get the
stands lined up right where the rear rails start to turn in towards the
"cruciform plate".
It is possible to turn the stands so the frame rear crossmember (the pipe
thingie) sits right on the stand, but I'm not sure that part was made to
take the entire weight of the back of the car... I've used this method on
my race car, but that car is significantly lighter back there than a stock
TR6 would be - particularly with the weight of the later cars with the
monster US Federal Spec bumpers.
> I am currently jacking up the entire side of the car by placing the jack on
> the frame at the middle of the door when I change tires. I don't know if I
> can get it up on jack stands by doing one side at a time. I seems like
> jacking up the front and then the rear (if I had to) might be a better
> solution.
If you look or feel along the frame in this area, there should be a hole in
the frame (roughly 5. in. diameter). This is the balance point. It's
actually a little forward of the middle of the door. I've jacked up both my
TR6's probably thousands of time that way. I get one side up (low setting
on the jackstand) then go to the other side and do the same thing. I check
the car for being steady and then lift up each side an inch or two at a
time 'till I get to the desired height.
Front/rear is tougher because the rear in particular doesn't really have a
good place to lift with the floor jack. You can use the cruciform plate,
but you'll be tempted to lift at the differential. Don't do this unless
your diff mounts are beefed up. As I've stated in the past, I'm pretty sure
that jacking by the diff. causes problems with the front diff mounts.
And if you're lifting the entire side of the car, make sure your jack is on
wheels and the wheels turn freely. Why?? So when you lift one side and the
other is already on stands, you don't pull the car off the stands or the
jack for that matter. You don't want to do that. Belive me.
> What are the proper locations in the front and rear for a hydraulic jack?
Anywhere along the frame rails should be safe. I like to use points where
two or more pieces come together... my reasoning - it should be stronger
there due to more metal (ideally). However, of there's any blisters or rust
holes along a frame rail - don't jack there!
I also use a block of wood on the jack to spread the load a bit along the
frame.
Some folks also double up the metal near the previously mentioned balance
point. This would be a good thind and would relieve the need for the wood
block.
> As an alternative to jack stands, does anyone use the auto ramps with their
> TR6?
I've tried them. When my car was the stock height, I could do this. Now
that the car is lowered a bit, the body bottoms out on the ramps if I try
to drive on/off the ramps. I also think that ramps can be dangerous... I've
driven off them, I've had them "shoot out" when trying to drive off/on them
and I even have seen pictures of a collapsed ramp. If you do go with ramps,
get the beefiest ones you can buy and consider reinforcing them. They tend
to fail right at the transition from ramp to the "flat part".
Frankly, I'd stay away from ramps given the other options.
Of course there's always the "backyard buddy" and the other various types
of lifts. They're surprisingly affordable when you consider how much time
you save by getting the car at the "right height" for a job. If I had a few
K $$$, I'd def. have an "asymm" lift. They are way kool. On the other hand,
I'd probably use that kind of money for an Electromotive fuel injection
setup instead.
;-)
> Jack Radley
Aren't you glad you asked??
rml
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Bob Lang | TR 6 Guy | Editor: New England Triumphs
Phone: | 617-253-7438 (days)| 781-438-2568 (eves)
Occupation: | ComputerZ | TR fixer-Upper
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