Graham,
I believe there is a freeze plug at the rear of the block giving access
to the cam. You should be able to remove the plug and strike the end of
the cam to free it. I'm just speculating here, because I've never
encountered the problem you describe. Since there are no cam bearings in
a stock TR6 engine, I can imagine a block in which the interior is
exposed to the elements could have the cam rusted to the block at the 5
bearing points.
Good luck,
Jim Davis
Fortson, GA
CF38690UO
CF37325U
gspens wrote:
>
> Ok, I got it. Here was the deal. Someone had unbolted all the
> connecting rods except the number 5 (counting from the front of the
> block right?) beacuse the position of the #5 was up against the oil pump
> housing (where the oil pump bolts on) of the block. I got the crank
> free of the mains and was being held on only by the #5. I figured
> (wrong) that I could simply pound the piston down and then get access to
> the connecting rod bolts. What I ened up doing was getting the crank
> and rod loosened up and was able to turn the crank "down" from the block
> which allow me to push it farenough off center to get a socket on the
> rod.
> So now I have the crank off and 3 of the 6 pistions came out
> "fairly" easily, the other 3 are going to need more than brute force.
> But, this poses another question: How do I get the rusty cam out of the
> block? Where is it being held? It looks like there are 3 places where
> it fits snugly in the block. Any one know of any tricks to get it out?
> Thanks to everone who has helped. This (obviously) was my first major
> teardown, and the rust, spider webs, dirt and weeds in the block made it
> that much harder for me. The good news is the block looks great, and
> judging from the blocks condition and the wear on the bearings (almost
> none) and the thrust washers, I figure the engine has less than 30,000
> miles on her.
>
> Thanks to everone who helped,
> Graham Spencer
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