John Summers wrote:
> I've been coping with this irregularity since I got my TR 6 in October
> '98 and kinda become so accustomed to it that I just consider it normal
> operation, but I know better.
> When I am sitting still with engine running I MUST keep the car in
> gear. If I put the transmission in neutral and idle for even a short
> time I can't get back into gear without shutting off selecting a gear
> and restarting. Now if I keep the car in gear with the clutch depressed
> there is not a problem other than my foot getting tired.
> Does anyone have any experience with this?
> John Summers
John,
There are a number of problems that all add up to the symptoms you are
observing.
Bottom line is that you should fix it soon as sitting with the clutch in all
the time
will significantly shorten it's lifespan.
Here's what to check:
1. Make sure the clutch is completely bled. To ensure you have all the air out
of the
system, take the clutch slave mounting bracket off the engine/bellhousing and
hold it
vertically (Be sure to keep your finger over the end, so the piston doesn't push
out.), then crack the bleeder screw and gravity will siphon the fluid through
the
system (You may have to have an assistant tap the pedal to start the fluid
flowing.)
Have an assistant ready to continually add fresh fluid to the reservoir as it
drains
out. This continous bleeding will eliminate any trapped air that may occur
where the
line bends coming out of the clutch master. Close the bleeder screw to stop
the fluid
flow.
2. Next, look at the clutch pedal itself. Grab hold of it and try to rock it
from
side to side. If the pedal moves about 3/4" when pushed sideways, the pivot
bushes
are shot and you'll need to pull the pedal box down and replace them - easy job.
3. While looking at the clutch pedal, check the area where the pedal connects
to the
fork on the master cylinder. Remove the pin and see if there's a groove worn
in it.
If so, replace it and look closely at the hole that the pin passes through in
both the
fork and the pedal itself. Chances are these holes will be worn oval. If so,
the
pedal should be removed, welded up, and the hole redrilled to the correct size.
4. Finally, look at the position of the actuating lever where it enters the
transmission. It should be straight up and down at rest with the clevis pin in
the
middle hole. Have an assistant push and hold the pedal to the floor. The rod
should
push the lever rearward about 5/8". If it does not, then there is still air in
the
hydraulics or one of the cylinders is leaking down. If the lever itself is
angled
backward at rest and does not give the full 5/8" travel, then the fork pin may
be
broken (inside the transmission). Telltale signs include spacers used under
the slave
cylinder and mounting bracket or the clevis pin in the top hole instead of the
middle.
Minor wear in the above linkages will add up to a surprising amount of 'lost
motion'
in the system resulting in difficulty selecting gears. The problem will be more
noticable as the car warms up and will seem much better when the car is cold.
Good luck!
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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