To all that responded, thanks. Your guidance was invaluable.
I was successful last night in getting the needle and adjusting screw out of
the front carb. I now understand what I'm dealing with. I can look at the
books all day long, but until I get the parts in my hand this thick head
doesn't fully comprehend what's involved. I found the little retaining clip
that holds the adjusting screw in place is missing from the front carb. The
whole assembly was riding up into the tube as the needle was adjusted.
Now comes the task of getting the carbs adjusted. I've already downloaded
the info on carb adjustment from VTR, so I guess I'm ready. I've adjusted
SUs before, but this is my first experience with the Strombergs. I may try
to work on them some tonight, but the body work has to come first. I have a
friend that used to work in a body shop for Jaguar & BMW in Britain. He is
going to paint my TR6 and his TR4A this weekend (if his car is ready) so I
need to be sure I'm ready.
After the painting I'm sure I'll be asking lots of questions about how to
put my car back together again. I think I brought as much home in the back
of my truck as was on the tow dolly. It's going to be like a big jigsaw
puzzle.
Thanks again,
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Waringa [mailto:kwaringa@dynsys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 8:47 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Continuing Carb Problems
Last week I sent a question about the problems I'm having with the Stromberg
carbs on my 71 TR6. I received a lot of good info and I appreciate it. I
got the adjusting screw in the rear carb free and it seems to be working ok.
I still haven't been able to get the needles out of the pistons. I have
turned them counterclockwise until my hand blistered. I know they are free
of the threads, but I can't get them out. The needle is located in the
center of a brass ring. The needle is spring loaded for movement (I
assume). The brass ring & needle moves in and out when turning the
adjusting screw. Are the brass ring and needle one piece? I think the
brass ring should come out with the needle, but I'm afraid of pulling to
hard and damaging the spring and needle.
Also, when turned counterclockwise to the end of the threads, the brass ring
on the front carb is still recessed into the piston the same amount as when
the rear carb is adjusted fully clockwise. I thought it was supposed to be
flush with the bottom of the piston. If I push down with the adjusting
tool, the brass ring slides down flush, but the threads won't engage. The
rear carb brass ring is just about flush with the bottom of the piston when
the threads engage.
I hope I've explained this so everyone can understand my problem. I can't
afford new carbs right now, so any advise will be very much appreciated.
I'd like to change over to SU carbs eventually, but that will have to wait a
while.
TIA
Ken Waringa
71 TR6
74 Midget
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