Bill & Skip Pugh wrote:
> Casper (TR3), died abruptly yesterday, major fuel flow problem, don't
> know yet if it was fuel pump, clogged filter or line or all of the
> above. If it is (as I suspect) the fuel pump (original), I have seen
> a thread about an electric replacement which included reccomended
> fuel pressures, etc.
Bill, I have a "new" fuel pump* in the boot just in case. Doesn't help you
much now, unless you're broken down in Denver. Here are the posts I've
saved on the topic. Bottom line is use the LOW PRESSURE Facet,
as there are MAJOR FIRE RISKS with a high pressure pump.
Also, you could install a fuel shutoff switch while you're at it, as in
Brian's suggestion at the end.
*it's a repro, I think. No priming lever. Plastic fuel bowl. Sure looks
nice in the trunk.
--
Steven Newell
Denver, CO
'62 TR4 CT5018LO
Here's what I turned up in my fuel system folder:
In response to Sumner's note in re a Facet pump, Bob Westerdale wrote:
Although I used a slightly different pump, I found adequate room for Pump
and filter directly below the Fuel tank in my 3A. Mounted the pump on the
outside of the spare tire 'box', on the left side. Filter connected to tank
output, --be sure the diff has enough room to move. Pump's output connects
to existing hardline, somewhere around the LH rear shock. I've had no
problems at all with the pump in this location, and I'd recommend a hidden
electrical disconnect in the pump supply circuit, very unsophisticated but
highly effective theft deterrent.... I have the 'old style pre-60000 rear
floor, I suspect the 3B will have even more room to work with.
Bob Westerdale
59 3A TS36967E
Greg Petrolati -- 1962 TR4 (CT4852L) -- wrote:
I mounted mine in the trunk, in the spare tire well againgst the
front bulkhead. It's lower than the bottom of the tank. My routing
runs the line through a Fram competition fuel filter ahead of the
pump. There's a length of rubber tubing ahead of the filter so I
can clamp off the fuel should the pump need changing at some future
date. The rest of the fuel line is steel until it gets to the
engine compartment where it's braided flex line to the Rochester
breakdown regulator and then on to the carbs (which were adapted
for AN fittings) I've heard of people munting them on frame rails
Randall wrote (9/25):
Pep Boys (a local auto parts chain) seems to carry the "Facet" pump in both low
(3-4 psi) and high (7-9 psi) versions. It's cheaper from Whitney. I've used a
low pressure Facet (from Whitney) on a TR3, it seemed to work OK. I used a
filter on the outlet (the kind that also converts from pipe threads to hose
barb), the crud from the tank didn't seem to bother the pump. You can still
buy a standalone sediment bowl (with a steel bowl instead of glass), I think
they're used on GM diesels.
Here is TeriAnn's post to Sumner on 9/12:
>With the engine
>running, I can watch fuel dripping onto the floor slowly, although I can't
>see where it's coming from.
Most likely it is the sediment bowl gasket. They harden over time. Try
a new one. When fuel leaks out of a line fitting you can usually see
fuel wetness on the top side of the pump. I always like to keep a new
spare sediment bowl gasket in my kit just in case.
>I've been thinking about installing an electric fuel pump for some time, for
>improved reliability.
The stock mechanical pumps are very reliable when they are in good
condition. They generally last a long time between needing rebuilding.
When they fail they just don't stop working, they generally just pump
less. So it iwll almost always get you home. If you keep a rebuild kit
in your carry along spares the pump can be rebuilt on the road in an hour
or so.
Also your SUs like a low pressure, high volume pump. The mechanical pump
puts out around 3 pounds pressure. If you get an electric pump you
should add a fuel pressure regulator.
So you would add an extra wire going back to the rear of the car, A fuel
pump near the fuel tank under the car (electric fuel pumps generally like
to push and not pull) and you will need to add a fuel pressure regulator.
On top of this when an electric fuel pump fails, it just usually stops
pumping.
Personally I think the stock mechanical pump is not only better but more
reliable and less apt to fail in such as way as to leave you stranded.
Finally, Brian Sanborn's suggestion while you're at it:
After spilling fuel on the floor too many times... I have a fuel
shut-off valve on my TR4 installed in the rubber hose going into
the fuel pump. I got it at my local car parts store. It came
off a display he as for lawn equipment and tractor accessories.
It is black plastic with a purple-red handle.
You see this all the time on lawn tractors and snowblowers. I
have also seen them at home depot in the tractor section and
catalogs such as Northern Tool.
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