In a message dated 2/18/01 7:18:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bradlnss@lightspeed.net writes:
<< I have one recommendation to replace the seat in the exhaust area only as
there is little room to do both intake and exhaust. Agree - disagree?>>
The valves on my 1.6L Kent ( Ford ) engine used in a Formula Ford road racer
car are very close together. The machine shop installed one replacement seat
then cut into the other to allow fitment of both.
<< Any experience with either Stainless steel valves or the (gulp!) $22.95
each, Moss Stellite valve? Any recommendations one over the other?>>
Over on the Porsche 914 list ( air cooled 4 cylinder engine same as 72 to 83
VW Bus) listers tend to have a problem with valve tips breaking off allowing
the valve to hit the piston :+(. The valves that don't break tips tend to
have pitted tips also chewing up the rocker arms. SS valves don't seem to be
a answer.
Stellite is a very common valve material and probably the best choice.
<<Any difference in quality between The Roadster Factory bronze guides and
the
nearly twice as expensive Moss manganese-bronze guides?>>
They might be the same, ask your machine shop operator what he uses.
<< Fit modern silicone guide seals? Yes - No? Any alternatives or no seal at
all?>>
There is a delicate balance between guide wear and oil burning. In general,
overhead cam engines need tighter valve seals to combat all the oil being
splashed around. Some came in block engines (350 Chevy) use a o ring
directly under the valve keeper and have a totally exposed valve guide. When
new this is sufficient but as the guides wear, oil burning increases.
Some engines use "umbrella" seals, these are fastened to the valve stem
sheilding the guide from direct oil drips.
Your machine shop operator would be the best choice for recommending a seal.
<< Valve springs - replace as a matter of course or have the machine shop test
them?>>
Are the valve springs as old as the car? If so it's a good idea to toss them
and install _quality_ replacements. Even though they may pass tension, metal
fatigue becomes a issue on older/ high mileage springs. If they were
replaced 20,000 miles ago a tension check would be just fine.
Harold
<<Thanks again for the help and for those who previously responded!
Brad Eells
65 TR4A (with bad exhaust valves) >>
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