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RE: TR6 Dash Refinishing

To: "'DarcyHunt@aol.com'" <DarcyHunt@aol.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: TR6 Dash Refinishing
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper@pixelsystems.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 14:06:59 -0500
Hi Darcy:

I did the veneer thing myself for my 72 TR6. I scraped off that infernal
plastic/varnish whatever it was by hand . Stripper seemed to have little
effect on it. I then passed the facia through a planer to get a smooth
surface. I definitely recommend glueing the veneer down. Take off all the
hardware and then tape the glove box lid in place from behind. You will have
to remove the metal tyre pressure plate from the inside of the lid if you
want to have a uniform thinckness of surface to work with. Don't use too
much glue and make sure you put weights across the whole surface, otherwise
you will get wrinkles in the veneer as the glue makes it damp. Put a lot of
weight on top of a waxed paper or plastic film on the UPTURNED surface.
That's important or you won't stick at the edges. I put at least 500 pounds
of books and bricks on top, but a little too much glue so I had a small
"wave" in the veneer that I had to sand down. Nervous work that.

Score the holes in the facia from behind and then very carefully use a small
exacto  knife to cut out enough material so that a router can be used to
finish the edges of the holes. Do NOT use the gauge inner hole edges as a
guide for the router without first being certain that they are truly round
and smooth; Mine weren't. Frankly a dremel is probably a better tool if you
have a steady hand and take your time.

I used a lot of coats of spar marine varnish to get a nice effect. In the
end I used Golden oak veneer with a watered down walnut stain and about 10
coats of Spar.
The end result is good, but if I was doing it again I would do a much
smoother job.

I know that you would have less waving with the self-stick variety of
veneer, I just don't think it will stick to the facia in the summer sun. The
facia is not at all completly flat around the edges and the wood veneer must
be softened to conform to the real shape of backing.

Good luck with your project,

Mark Hooper
72 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: DarcyHunt@aol.com [mailto:DarcyHunt@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 8:16 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: TR6 Dash Refinishing


Have started my first winter project which is refinishing the dash on my
TR6. 
 Dash came out reasonably easy and I strip all the hardware off without 
damaging any instrumentation.  Now I need to decide what to do.  I scrapped 
off the thick coating which had mostly lifted off anyway, just had to chip
at 
a few areas and was done in 1 1/2 hours.  Examining the wood, I've got some 
discoloration and some splitting with the grain actually raised up around
the 
split.  Please give me some advice.  I'm inclined to sand it all done a 
little more then put a thin veneer on top.  Not sure if I should get the
self 
adhering veneer or glue it with carpenters glue.  Who has done it and what 
works?
Thanks

Darcy Hunter
'73 TR6
North Easton, MA

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