Dan,
Sounds like you pretty much have it except that there is no need to
drill the top of the frame. Feel the underside of the frame directly
under the formally plugged holes and you should feel a pre-drilled hole.
Just cut away the vinyl for the bolt to go through. TRF used to have the
black dome headed bolts and thick washers in stock. That's where I got
mine. The top-hat part of the spacer fits against the hard top, and then
the weather seal is glued over it to the hard top, capturing the spacer.
TRF used to have hard-top fitting instructions. You may wish to give
them a call because they come in handy when doing a first-time install.
Be sure to carefully adhere the weather-stripping to the sides directly
under the side windows to protect the body from the back of the pop
rivets used to hold the clips for the trim strips. Fitting the round
rubber buffers that sit on the deck properly is a trial and error effort
to get the top at the correct installed height. I have mine so that
there is about a .25" clearance between the top and deck when the top is
fully bolted down.
There is also some adjustment required of the black top-hat pedestals
that fit on the rear hard top shelf. And the lip of these pieces goes
UNDER the cardboard and vinyl covering. Something I didn't realize until
after I had the headliner installed.
You may have to loosen the windshield attachment bolts to adjust the
rake of the windshield to fit the hard top. It may also be necessary to
adjust the door glass up-stop for the glass to reach the top of the hard
top window weatherseal.
This was my greatest disappointment upon installing my hard top. I could
never get the door glass to properly fit in the opening formed by the
windshield and hard top. In order for the glass to fit properly against
the hard top weatherstripping it would bind at the top of the windshield
frame. If it fit the windshield properly, it wouldn't fit against the
hard top. Frustrating!
On a positive note, fitting the hard top transforms the handling of the
car. It reduces the twisting of the body and frame dramatically which
gives the car a tighter and flatter feel when cornering.
There is a special hood cover that covers the soft top when the hardtop
is installed along with it. I believe I have an extra one in black if
you are interested.
I have some photos of several attachments as fitted to my car. Let me
know if you would like them and I'll email them to you.
Good luck,
Jim Davis
Fortson, GA
CF38690UO
CF37325U
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of clancy36@attbi.com
Sent: Sunday, November 24, 2002 4:56 AM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: TR6 hartop
i just bought a hardtop for my six, i am gutting the shell to prep for
paint.i've never seen one installed on a six, i have most of the
attaching
hardware for the rear and it seems straight forward,the front of the
hardtop
however, were it attaches to the windscreen frame it seems to me you
remove the
two rubber plugs in the w/s frame then you would drill through the frame
install the spacer distance tube shown in trf's hardtop parts breakdown
then
bolt from the underside of the w/s frame drawing the hardtop down onto
the
frame and seal. am i on the right page on this, anybody with a hardtop
who can
give me a clue would be mucho appreciated.also i am replacing the
headliner
from white to black TRF is out of stock any other sources available?
it snowed a tiny bit here in new england this week, looking forward to a
warmer, dryer, six.
thanks
--
Dan Clancy
1970 TR6
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