The valve tappets for both Intake and Exhaust should be at the bottom of
their stroke for both if you are doing your installation this way. Top dead
center on the valve tappets would mean the valves are fully open on the high
point of the cam.
Then you need to assemble the cam chain wheel such that it keeps the chain
tight between the crank and the cam. If I recall correctly the original
style cam sprockets can be assembled four different ways to make 1/4 tooth
adjustments so that the assembler can get the timing correct. Also when I
was degreeing my D cam I did need to include about .010 before checking
It's been 20 years so I don't recall exactly how I did all of this but if
you need me to I can research it further. Perhaps someone else on the list
will have the details in their memory.
----- Original Message -----
From: "TERJE KOLBEINSEN" <email@example.com>
To: "Triumph Mailing List" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 11:57 AM
Subject: TR3 engine & timing
> Hi List
> I am in the process of assembly my TR3 engine and to ensure that I have
> the timing correct I approch this superb list:-)
> I have installed a new camshaft and camshaft chain wheel, which means that
> do not have the dots and scribe line on the new chain wheel.
> This is what I have done, so far:
> 1. Turned crank to get cylinder #1 to TDC
> 2. Then turned the camshaft to get inlet valve tappet to TDC (the second
> from the front of engine)
> 3. Installed the timing chain
> This is as far as I understand the explanation to Roger Williams in "How
> restore..", but the picture in the workshop manual started to puzzle me.
> Here, the view of the bolt holes does not appear as on my engine. I hope
> there is a good explanation why not?
> The distributor gear seems to be correct, when cylinder #1 is at TDC of
> compression stage though.
> Should I have accounted for the 15 deg. before TDC before installing the
> timing chain?
> Terje Kolbeinsen