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RE: U-joints

To: "'Bill & Skip Pugh'" <anabil@caltel.com>,
Subject: RE: U-joints
From: John & Patricia Donnelly <pdonnel1@san.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 13:22:16 -0800
Hi Bill,

While I've heard the same thought before, I'm not convinced it's necessary. 
What I would do is to replace both ujoints on the shaft at the same time. I'd 
check the other ujoints, but only replace in pairs. The TR6 has 6 ujoints, 2 on 
the prop shaft and 2 each on the split shafts. So, if you pull one of the half 
shafts replace both ujoints.

Pulling the half shafts is not difficult, and as I recall you don't need to get 
underneath either. On a scale of 1-10, it's probably a 6. You do need to jack 
up the car, remove the wheel and brake assembly, and un-join the two parts of 
the half shaft after peeling back the boot. You then pull out the outer hub 
with 1/2 of the half shaft. Then reach in and unfasten the four bolts holding 
the inner half shaft to the differential. Replacing the ujoints is 
straightforward.

Words of caution. The six studs holding the brake/hub assy onto the trailing 
arm are suseptible to being stripped, because they're set in cast aluminum 
which is pretty soft. Quite a few of us have installed helicoils. The torque 
spec is only 10 psi! Also, replace the 4 bolts/nuts holding the halfshafts to 
the differential with new hardware. Use grade 8 nylocs, or better, and fasten 
securely.

Lastly, you can get ujoints with and without grease nipples. The nipple 
versions are pretty common and carried by the big three. Precision Universal in 
Chicago makes a nippleless ujoint that fits. It's their part number 344. I 
don't know if they still exist, but I still have one in my spares kit from a 
few years back.

For the propeller shaft you will need to get underneath the car and is basicly 
the same as the TR3.

Hope this helps!
John

On Wednesday, January 26, 2005 10:51 AM, Bill & Skip Pugh 
[SMTP:anabil@caltel.com] wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>       I have read that if you have to replace one U-Joint in the
> TR6, then it is a good idea to replace all of them ... OK ... can
> anyone tell me just how difficult that is for a average mechanic (me)
> with very little experience in the TR6   (TR3s I know) ??   Or is it
> something I should have done by a professional?




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