>> Depends on whether you bought the tubeless option or not. Dayton makes
>> them
>> both ways.
>
>Hmmm. Didn't know that. I bought them used in terrific shape, but used.
>Any way to tell by looking?
Dayton makes the tubeless wheels in special sizes, not the stock sizes.
The reason is that they need space between where the spokes connect and the
rim edge for the "safety bump". Dayton makes these up for British Wire
Wheel. See the size chart at http://www.britishwirewheel.com/wheels.htm
and look for the little "t-for-tubeless" in the chart for the wheels which
are half-inch wider to make room for the safety bumps.
"Safety rims" are required for tubeless tires. You can often get a tire
shop in the USA to mount tires tubes on a "non-safety" rim if you sign a
waiver. I did this for the autocross tires on my stock rostyle wheels for
my MG Midget.
The difference is that safety rims have a little ridge or bump just inboard
of the rim seal. This is supposed to help hold the tire bead against the
rim if there is a loss of air pressure. A stock configuration wire wheel
does not have room for this bump.
>Am I sensing, then that the 48 spoke originals were meant to have tubes?
Yes. As were the 60- and 72-spoke originals. I have the Dayton
reproductions of the 60-spoke original. I have tubes. If you were to take
such a wheel and silicone (I am told that Fusor brand urethane seam seal
works well also) seal the wire connections inside, you would probably need
to sign a waiver to get a tire shop to mount your tires tubeless. Or they
might just refuse to do it.
The safety bump is invisible on cast alloy wheels, but stamped steel wheels
(including Dayton tubeless wire wheels) should show this bump as a rounded
groove on the visible side. Just look at any steel wheel on a non-antique
car and you will see it.
Phil Ethier
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