> 1. While the brake dust seems to be acceptable it does cause some
> squealing (squeaking) while running. I cleaned the calipers, pads and
> plates and the squealing went away, but only for a month or so. It now
> squeals while going 45 MPH down a straight road. The brake fluif level
> is as original after restoration - maybe slightly down but only a half
> inch. The fluif seems normal, but the squeal doesn't. At one time I
> thought it was wheel bearings, but they're adjusted right on the money -
> maybe even a wee bit tight.
Loosening them up may actually help with squealing while not on the brakes ...
it helps push the caliper pistons back a bit.
I assume you've checked that the anti-squeal springs are in good condition ...
at this point, probably your only hope is to replace the pads and surface the
rotors. However, I had good luck with adding aftermarket "anti-squeal shims",
which were basically soft aluminum sheets with adhesive backing that stuck on
the back of the pads where they touch the caliper pistons.
> 2. When first starting out after a break, the brake pedal travel is much
> more than after I press it once. During the restoration I replaced the
> brake pipes all around, am running Dot 5 and the system has no
> restrictor (as original). It's a little scary, especially for my wife
> when she drives the car, but for me as well, especially if an emergency
> stop is needed after not using the brakes for awhile, such as traveling
> long distances.
That sounds to me like your front bearings are still pretty loose. How are you
setting them ? Might be something else loose too, like maybe the stub axle
isn't seated into the upright. On my TR3A, one of the stub axles was actually
worn (or distorted, don't know exactly how it happened) so that the inner
bearing race was a sloppy fit on it.
Another thought, are you sure the MC is returning all the way immediately ?
I've heard complaints that DOT 5 isn't quite as slippery as DOT 3/4, if the MC
is really tight it might have enough friction to not return all the way every
time. One of the rebuilders says not to use DOT 5 in their resleeved MCs for
this reason.
Makes me wonder if the squeal is something else ... does it always change when
you step on the brakes ?
> a. Should a brake squeal adhesive, such as that used on American
> vehicles (the blue goo), be benificial to reduce the squeal?
I've not tried it, but it might work. Assuming this is the stuff that goes on
the back of the pad, not it's face.
> Will switching to the "green" pads help the dust
> and thus the squeal problem?
IMO the dust has nothing to do with the squeal.
> b. The pedal travel is probably caused by the calipers/cylinders
> relaxing too far. It probably has an effect in making the squeal as
> well. So, will adding a restrictor cure both problems?
Probably would help with the low pedal. I doubt it would help with the squeal.
> Note: the older
> TR configurations have a restrictor at the rear, not the front.
I beg to differ, John. It actually affects both front and rear, but the
residual pressure (it's technically a residual pressure valve, not a restrictor)
is too low to overcome the return springs in the rear, so only the front brakes
drag.
Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO - residual pressure valve removed many years ago
56 TR3 TS13571L next project
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver (finally !)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project (for sale)
57 TR3 TS21731L rusting quietly 2000 miles away
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