> The same adjustability can be accomplished by just switching to the
> late model trunions and a-arms, and welding receivers for Heim joints
> to the inner ends of the upper a-arms.
Or you could use TR4 trunnions with the TR3 lower A-arms, and only change
the upper A-arms & ball joint. If you do use the TR4A-TR6 style trunnions,
you'll need to either change the vertical links or drill yours for the zerk
fitting (unlike the TR2-4 trunnions, the later ones have no fitting on the
trunnion).
The increased castor will make the steering heavier, which might be an issue
on the street.
Another alternative to cutting and welding the upper arms is to build a
bracket to go between the upper pivot and it's mounting to the shock tower.
This allows the pivot point to be moved both upwards and inwards, allowing
adjustment of both camber and roll center. And can be applied to the stock
TR3 components, if you don't want the extra castor.
I've not tried any of these changes myself, but I do plan to try the last
one.
Randall
|