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RE: TR6 Clutch Survey Part 2

To: <acekraut11@aol.com>, <GSFuqua1@aol.com>
Subject: RE: TR6 Clutch Survey Part 2
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 22:49:45 -0700
> Currently I
> put a new B & B in with an original (Don Malling) Gunst. It squeals and
> I may very well yank it and replace it with a Sachs (If I can find out
> who sells them. Any suggestions?)

The squealing probably isn't the fault of the pressure plate.  The TR6 design is
that the TOB is supposed to spin all the time even when the clutch is released.
Because of that, the original bearing is a very free-running unit.  Usually, the
squealing is the result of substituting a stiffer bearing (like the "Gunst"),
such that the very light spring that loads the TOB into the pressure plate isn't
enough, and the bearing turns against the PP rather than spinning with it.  If
the squeal goes away the instant you touch the clutch pedal, this is the
problem.

There are three possible solutions to this :

1) Switch back to a correct stock TOB.  This probably isn't a sure cure, as it's
been reported that some vendors are supplying bearings that are too stiff
(possibly due to a manufacturing defect).  Also check that the spring inside the
clutch slave is present and in good condition.

2) Change the slave cylinder linkage to pull the bearing back from the PP, as
the TR2-4 did.  This involves adding a return spring and using an adjustable
pushrod, plus periodic adjustment as the clutch wears.

3) Add a stronger spring to load the TOB into the PP.  I've heard that Joachim
Gunst's original kits included the spring (or at least instructions to obtain
and install one); but it appears that detail gets frequently overlooked by
people copying his kits.

Aaron, since it's relevant to your survey, I'll add that I retained the TR3
slave setup (option 2 above) when I installed the TR6 clutch.  Works for me ...

Randall




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