> I'm in the process of wiring up a pair of vintage Lucas lamps, one spot the
> other fog, into my 64 TR4. I've read Dan Masters' directions for wiring into
> a 250/TR6. I am doing an alternator conversion, which means I will also
> change the polarity to negative ground. My questions are
> 1. Any reason why I can't apply Dan's wiring scheme to the TR4?
I've not seen the article in question, but ISTR Dan doesn't like ammeters. My
personal suggestion is always to add loads to the alternator/car side of the
ammeter, so the ammeter still correctly indicates how much charge/discharge the
battery is seeing. Connecting loads to the starter solenoid will cause the load
current to look like charge current to the battery. Connecting the alternator
here (as ISTR Dan suggests) will cause the ammeter to always read discharge,
even when the battery is being overcharged.
> 2. If I put relays in the scheme, what size do I use? Sized for each lamp's
> amperage?
As a minimum, yes. However, an ordinary "foglight" relay is usually rated
higher, like 20 amps, and will work just fine.
> 3. What size fuses in the in-line fuses?
> 4. The bulb in the spot is 48 Watt, meaning it draws 4 amps, right?
> Anything else I should be wary of?
Incandescent bulbs draw a lot of extra current when they are first turned on
(which is why the bulbs in your house so frequently fail when first turned on)
so the fuse needs to be a bit larger than the bulb rating. Ideally the fuse
should be matched to the current capacity of the wire you use ... larger wire
and fuses mean less resistance which means more light. So I'd probably do
something like 14 AWG wire (which can handle up to 30 amps) and a 25 amp fuse.
Randall
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