That only works going the other way. Steel to wires. Your product
would only exacerbate an already dangerous situation as in preventing
the lug nuts from a full "grasp" of the studs
On 17-Jun-11, at 11:44 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> unless you used the 1/4" wheels spacer.
> like the ones i make!
> Frank
>
> From: Don Spence <dkspence@telus.net>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Fri, June 17, 2011 9:58:54 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16
>
> If you are changing from wires to solid wheels, you really need to
> replace the wheel studs with the longer ones meant for solid wheels.
> ( RFK700 at TRF)
>
> On 16-Jun-11, at 4:51 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
> >
> > From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv@roadrunner.com>
> > Date: June 16, 2011 4:20:44 PM MDT (CA)
> > To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>, "Triumphs"
> > <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3
> >
> >
> > At the end of the day I think that you'll find that it's the wire
> > wheels. Can you find someone who does on the car balancing? That
> > may improve things a bit. I'd also suggest trying a set of solid
> > wheels and tires. I must caution however that you don't get much
> > stud and bolt engagement (thread length) doing that and then
> > driving up to 60mph is risky. That and you don't know how well they
> > are balance either but if you noticed a change it could steer you
> > in the right direction.
> >
> > I changed from wires to Panasports on my 4A and 29 years of
> > vibration and shaking disappeared. My wire were old however but
> > they were maintained.
> >
> > JVV
> triumphs@autox.team.net
>
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