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Thanks Randall, I'll have to lie under the car to study your method before I
fully understand.
Art.
On 09/18/15, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
> My method:
>
> Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka
> setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
> but double-check that)
>
> Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks
> beforehand.
>
> Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head.
>
> Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the
> little tab on the frame). Cut a piece of all-thread
> about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the
> pin. Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
> lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out as
> far as the socket will allow. Took a bunch of torque
> (I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) but
> the pin moved before anything broke. Add a suitable
> spacer and pull some more. Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out. I
> replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
> were looking worn.
>
> Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. I've always succeeded
> with the first method but I'm not certain it's
> actually easier than taking the body off <g>
>
> If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before
> reinstallation, it will pop right out next time.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
>
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Thanks Randall=2C I=27ll have to lie under the car to study your method =
before I fully understand=2E=3Cdiv=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3C/div=3E=3Cdiv=3EArt=2E=
=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3Cspan=3EOn 09/18/15=2C =3Cb class=3D=22name=22=3ER=
andall =3C/b=3E =26lt=3BTR3driver=40ca=2Err=2Ecom=26gt=3B wrote=3A=3C/sp=
an=3E=3Cblockquote cite=3D=22mid=3A11=2EF9=2E13021=2E2193CF55=40cdptpa-o=
edge01=22 class=3D=22iwcQuote=22 style=3D=22border-left=3A 1px solid =23=
00F=3B padding-left=3A 13px=3B margin-left=3A 0=3B=22 type=3D=22cite=22=3E=
=3Cdiv class=3D=22mimepart text plain=22=3EMy method=3A=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=
=3EHardened all-thread=2C hardened nuts=2C extra thick hardened flat was=
hers (aka setup washers) all from MMC=2E (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF=2C=3C=
br /=3Ebut double-check that)=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3ESoak the pin in PBB (or=
your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks beforehand=2E=3Cbr /=3E=
=3Cbr /=3EUse a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head=2E =3C=
br /=3E=3Cbr /=3EFind a suitable socket that will just fit over the head=
of the pin (and the little tab on the frame)=2E=A0 Cut a piece of all-t=
hread=3Cbr /=3Eabout 4=26quot=3B long=2C and use double nuts to lightly =
torque it into the head of the pin=2E=A0 Remove the nuts=2C lube the thr=
eads with the best=3Cbr /=3Elube you=27ve got=2C then use the setup wash=
er and one nut to pull the pin out as far as the socket will allow=2E=A0=
Took a bunch of torque=3Cbr /=3E(I used an extra-long box end wrench an=
d grabbed the car to pull against) but the pin moved before anything bro=
ke=2E=A0 Add a suitable=3Cbr /=3Espacer and pull some more=2E=A0 Lather=2C=
rinse=2C repeat until the pin falls out=2E=A0 I replaced the nut =26amp=
=3B all-thread once or twice=2C as they=3Cbr /=3Ewere looking worn=2E=3C=
br /=3E=3Cbr /=3EOr=3B take the body off and commence pounding with a BF=
H=2E=A0 I=27ve always succeeded with the first method but I=27m not cert=
ain it=27s=3Cbr /=3Eactually easier than taking the body off =26lt=3Bg=26=
gt=3B=3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3EIf you grease the pin up good with copper-based=
anti-seize before reinstallation=2C it will pop right out next time=2E=3C=
br /=3E=3Cbr /=3E-- Randall=A0 =3Cbr /=3E=3Cbr /=3E=3C/div=3E=3C/blockqu=
ote=3E=3C/div=3E
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