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Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt

To: Michael Marr <mmarr@albiontechnical.com>, Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2015 21:41:49 +0000 (UTC)
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <D9819836-B0A1-4122-A74C-ECE38F818B79@albiontechnical.com>
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you will also find that the head of the pin has a shoulder cut into it. so =
the head looks like a "D" shape.=C2=A0the tube that it fits through is cut =
away so that it fits flush.
frank
      From: Michael Marr <mmarr@albiontechnical.com>
 To: Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>=20
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>; Randall <TR3driver=
@ca.rr.com>=20
 Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 2:14 PM
 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt
  =20
Art:
It has been a while since I changed a TR3a spring, but I believe that you w=
ill find that the tube in which the pin fits is what is welded to the frame=
. The pin has a head that is the same diameter as the OD of the tube, so at=
 first glance it looks like the pin is welded, whereas, in fact, it is just=
 the tube that is welded. That's my recollection, at least.=C2=A0
Mike

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 29, 2015, at 14:58, Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca> wrote:


What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0
On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:


My method:

Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka =
setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
but double-check that)

Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks b=
eforehand.

Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head.=20

Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the=
 little tab on the frame). =C2=A0Cut a piece of all-thread
about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of th=
e pin. =C2=A0Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out =
as far as the socket will allow. =C2=A0Took a bunch of torque
(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) b=
ut the pin moved before anything broke. =C2=A0Add a suitable
spacer and pull some more. =C2=A0Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls =
out. =C2=A0I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
were looking worn.

Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. =C2=A0I've always s=
ucceeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's
actually easier than taking the body off <g>

If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before reinstall=
ation, it will pop right out next time.

-- Randall =C2=A0


=20


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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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3@yahoo.com


  
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<html><body><div style=3D"color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:He=
lveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:16px"><div><span>you will also find that the head of the pin has a =
shoulder cut into it. so the head looks like a "D" shape.&nbsp;</span></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>the tube that it fits through is cut away so that i=
t fits flush.</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span><br></span></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14758"><span>frank</span></div><b=
r>  <div style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Ar=
ial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_144354=
7637366_14660"> <div style=3D"font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, H=
elvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;" id=3D"yui_3_1=
6_0_1_1443547637366_14659"> <div dir=3D"ltr" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_14435476373=
66_14658"> <hr size=3D"1">  <font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial" id=3D"yui_3_16_=
0_1_1443547637366_14661"> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold;">From:</span>=
</b> Michael Marr &lt;mmarr@albiontechnical.com&gt;<br> <b><span style=3D"f=
ont-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> Art McEwen &lt;amcewen2@cogeco.ca&gt; <br=
><b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Cc:</span></b> "triumphs@autox.team.=
net" &lt;triumphs@autox.team.net&gt;; Randall &lt;TR3driver@ca.rr.com&gt; <=
br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Tuesday, Septemb=
er 29, 2015 2:14 PM<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight: bold;">Subject:</spa=
n></b> Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt<br> </font> </div> <div cla=
ss=3D"y_msg_container" id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14759"><br><div id=
=3D"yiv7129330502"><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14761">
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14760">Art:</div>
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14762"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14763">It has been a while since I ch=
anged a TR3a spring, but I believe that you will find that the tube in whic=
h the pin fits is what is welded to the frame. The pin has a head that is t=
he same diameter as the OD of the tube, so at first glance it looks like
 the pin is welded, whereas, in fact, it is just the tube that is welded. T=
hat's my recollection, at least.&nbsp;</div>
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14764"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_1443547637366_14765">Mike<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div class=3D"qtdSeparateBR"><br><br></div><div class=3D"yiv7129330502yqt32=
71690246" id=3D"yiv7129330502yqt03026"><div id=3D"yui_3_16_0_1_144354763736=
6_14766"><br clear=3D"none">
On Sep 29, 2015, at 14:58, Art McEwen &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect=
" ymailto=3D"mailto:amcewen2@cogeco.ca"; target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:am=
cewen2@cogeco.ca">amcewen2@cogeco.ca</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div></div>
<div>What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://x.=
jtrk1.net/z.z?l=3DaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZHJvcGJveC5jb20vcy9qMzNuODU4dzBwcDBidHgva=
W1nXzA1OTEuanBnP2RsPTA%3d&amp;r=3D5442752742&amp;d=3D737223&amp;p=3D1&amp;t=
=3Dh&amp;h=3Db60c1dc779937842d1b11854076cb5a7">https://www.dropbox.com/s/j3=
3n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0</a></div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect=
" ymailto=3D"mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com"; target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:T=
R3driver@ca.rr.com">TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span>My method:</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers=
 (aka setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</span><br c=
lear=3D"none">
<span>but double-check that)</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several w=
eeks beforehand.</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head. </span><br =
clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (a=
nd the little tab on the frame). &nbsp;Cut a piece of all-thread</span><br =
clear=3D"none">
<span>about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head=
 of the pin. &nbsp;Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best</span><b=
r clear=3D"none">
<span>lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pi=
n out as far as the socket will allow. &nbsp;Took a bunch of torque</span><=
br clear=3D"none">
<span>(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull agai=
nst) but the pin moved before anything broke. &nbsp;Add a suitable</span><b=
r clear=3D"none">
<span>spacer and pull some more. &nbsp;Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin =
falls out. &nbsp;I replaced the nut &amp; all-thread once or twice, as they=
</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>were looking worn.</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH. &nbsp;I've al=
ways succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's</span><br cle=
ar=3D"none">
<span>actually easier than taking the body off &lt;g&gt;</span><br clear=3D=
"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before rei=
nstallation, it will pop right out next time.</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
<span>-- Randall &nbsp;</span><br clear=3D"none">
<span></span><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</blockquote>
<img src=3D"http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=3D5442752742&amp;d=3D737223"; alt=3D"" =
data-id=3D"d7bd738f-fccc-8772-a488-07b36e2eede2"> </div>
</blockquote></div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span></span><br clear=3D"none">
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