--===============4271575176593755182==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
boundary="Apple-Mail-F1B45530-F3E4-4B63-BF03-426AF24005B0"
--Apple-Mail-F1B45530-F3E4-4B63-BF03-426AF24005B0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The new pins arrived today, with hi resolution and max zoom I can almost beli=
eve I can see that shape in the old ones (or it could be anything). More pb=
blaster I guess.
> On Sep 29, 2015, at 5:47 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr=
.com> wrote:
>
> That would indeed be a problem; but as Michael said, I do=
n't believe that is the case in your photo.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
>
=
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art M=
cEwen
> Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 12:58 PM
> To: Randall
> Cc: tri=
umphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt
> =
> What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?
>
> https://=
www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=3D0
>
>> On Sep 18, 2015=
, at 12:17 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>> My method:
>>
=
>> Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (ak=
a setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
>> but doub=
le-check that)
>>
>> Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oi=
l) for several weeks beforehand.
>>
>> Use a bottoming tap to clean out th=
e threads in the head.
>>
>> Find a suitable socket that will just fit ov=
er the head of the pin (and the little tab on the frame). Cut a piece of all=
-thread
>> about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the =
head of the pin. Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
>> lube yo=
u've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out as far as=
the socket will allow. Took a bunch of torque
>> (I used an extra-long box=
end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) but the pin moved before any=
thing broke. Add a suitable
>> spacer and pull some more. Lather, rinse, r=
epeat until the pin falls out. I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice=
, as they
>> were looking worn.
>>
>> Or; take the body off and commence =
pounding with a BFH. I've always succeeded with the first method but I'm not=
certain it's
>> actually easier than taking the body off <g>
>>
>> If yo=
u grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before reinstallation, =
it will pop right out next time.
>>
>> -- Randall
--Apple-Mail-F1B45530-F3E4-4B63-BF03-426AF24005B0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div></div><div>The new pins arrived
today, with hi resolution and max zoom I can almost believe I can see that
shape in the old ones (or it could be anything). More pb blaster I
guess. </div><div><br>On Sep 29, 2015, at 5:47 PM, Randall <<a
href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com";>TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
<meta content="text/html; charset=us-ascii" http-equiv="Content-Type">
<meta name="GENERATOR" content="MSHTML 8.00.6001.23588">
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span class="634074621-29092015"><font
color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">That would indeed be a problem; but as
Michael said, I don't
believe that is the case in your photo. </font></span></div>
<div> </div><!-- Converted from text/plain format -->
<p><font size="2">-- Randall </font></p>
<div> </div><br>
<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px;
MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<div dir="ltr" lang="en-us" class="OutlookMessageHeader" align="left">
<hr tabindex="-1">
<font size="2" face="Tahoma"><b>From:</b> Triumphs
[<a
href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Art
McEwen<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, September 29, 2015 12:58 PM<br><b>To:</b>
Randall<br><b>Cc:</b> <a
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:</b>
Re: [TR] TR3A
Leaf Spring front pin/bolt<br></font><br></div>
<div></div>
<div></div>
<div>What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><a
href="http://x.jtrk1.net/z.z?l=aHR0cDovL3guanRyazEubmV0L3ouej9sPWFIUjBjSE02THk5M2QzY3VaSEp2Y0dKdmVDNWpiMjB2Y3k5cU16TnVPRFU0ZHpCd2NEQmlkSGd2YVcxblh6QTFPVEV1YW5CblAyUnNQVEElM2QmYW1wO3I9NTQ0Mjc1Mjc0MiZhbXA7ZD03MzcyMjMmYW1wO3A9MSZhbXA7dD1oJmFtcDtoPWI2MGMxZGM3Nzk5Mzc4NDJkMWIxMTg1NDA3NmNiNWE3&r=5442967324&d=737223&p=1&t=h&h=854e7372216941b9473bc39ebffe2b36";>https://www.dropbox.com/s/j33n858w0pp0btx/img_0591.jpg?dl=0</a></div>
<div><br>On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall <<a
href="mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com";>TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>>
wrote:<br><br></div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div><span>My method:</span><br><span></span><br><span>Hardened
all-thread,
hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka setup washers) all
from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,</span><br><span>but double-check
that)</span><br><span></span><br><span>Soak the pin in PBB (or your
choice
of penetrating oil) for several weeks
beforehand.</span><br><span></span><br><span>Use a bottoming tap to
clean
out the threads in the head. </span><br><span></span><br><span>Find a
suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the
little
tab on the frame). Cut a piece of all-thread</span><br><span>about
4"
long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the pin.
Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the
best</span><br><span>lube
you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out as
far
as the socket will allow. Took a bunch of
torque</span><br><span>(I
used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against)
but
the pin moved before anything broke. Add a
suitable</span><br><span>spacer and pull some more. Lather, rinse,
repeat until the pin falls out. I replaced the nut &
all-thread
once or twice, as they</span><br><span>were looking
worn.</span><br><span></span><br><span>Or; take the body off and
commence
pounding with a BFH. I've always succeeded with the first method
but
I'm not certain it's</span><br><span>actually easier than taking the
body
off <g></span><br><span></span><br><span>If you grease the pin up
good
with copper-based anti-seize before reinstallation, it will pop right
out
next time.</span><br><span></span><br><span>-- Randall
</span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote><img alt=""
src="http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=5442752742&d=737223"; nosend="1">
</blockquote>
</div></blockquote><img
src="http://x.jtrk1.net/o.z?r=5442967324&d=737223"; alt=""></body></html>
--Apple-Mail-F1B45530-F3E4-4B63-BF03-426AF24005B0--
--===============4271575176593755182==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
--===============4271575176593755182==--
|
