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Hello,
Not sure what the problems are here. I rebuilt the MC on my 72 6 and I
am in my 12th season. Now I did use the dot 5 synthetic fluid from TRF.
The MC on my 58 3 had the seals replaced about 10 years ago and not a
problem since.
Same with the 63 4. Rebuild MC and clutch MC and used the same dot 5
from TRF. No problems for over 15 seasons.
Before I rebuilt the 3 MC, I did notice it weeping a bit. I have never
had a total failure in over 50 years of Triumph ownership.
I know this is of little help to understand the failures but I did want
to let you know what you are experiencing is very unusual in my opinion.
Bob
On 5/17/20 9:44 AM, Robert Rochlin wrote:
> Hi Richard,
> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete
> rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. Â As I recall it
> worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the
> garage and the brakes totally failed. Â The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck
> dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very
> expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had
> time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. Â They rebuilt the m/c
> again gratis and I reinstalled it. Â After about 8 months the m/c
> started to fail again, but slowlyâ?¦ I replaced it with a new Girling
> and it has gone several seasons working fine but now Iâ??m getting the
> slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace
> the seals myself.
> Â Â Although Iâ??ve had good luck with several rebuilt components
> including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, Â Iâ??ll never
> send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
> Best,
> Bob
>
>> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay
>>
>> Hello Bob, /et al./,
>>
>> Â Â Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the
>> stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to
>> venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings'
>> seem to think an /All Clear/ has been sounded and they're back face
>> to face. I wish them luck.
>>
>>   I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third,
>> working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor
>> since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their
>> name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder
>> and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
>> Â Â In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake
>> circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the
>> rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no
>> fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and
>> still works great today!
>>
>> Â Â Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in
>> China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How
>> did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
>>
>> -rick
>>
>> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack
>>
>> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time
>> of quarantine. It downâ??t look like here in Massachusetts the
>> stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more
>> weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to
>> reopen.
>> Â Â Â Â Iâ??ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In
>> the past Iâ??ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders
>> only to have them catastrophically fail soon after
>> reinstallation. Iâ??m figuring that I can improve on that record.
>> When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild
>> process the article recommended red grease. I donâ??t have any,
>> but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of
>> red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do
>> the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake
>> grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and
>> it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping.
>> Â Â Â Â Any advice would be appreciated.
>> Â Â Â Â Best,
>> Â Â Â Â Bob
>> Â Â Â Â â??72 TR6
>> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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<p>Hello,</p>
<p>Not sure what the problems are here. I rebuilt the MC on my 72 6
and I am in my 12th season. Now I did use the dot 5 synthetic
fluid from TRF. <br>
</p>
<p>The MC on my 58 3 had the seals replaced about 10 years ago and
not a problem since.</p>
<p>Same with the 63 4. Rebuild MC and clutch MC and used the same
dot 5 from TRF. No problems for over 15 seasons.</p>
<p>Before I rebuilt the 3 MC, I did notice it weeping a bit. I have
never had a total failure in over 50 years of Triumph ownership. <br>
</p>
<p>I know this is of little help to understand the failures but I
did want to let you know what you are experiencing is very unusual
in my opinion.</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/17/20 9:44 AM, Robert Rochlin
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
Hi Richard,
<div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">
</span>I
sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a
complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.
 As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I
was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. Â The
TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the
front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c
back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop
fixed the TR6. Â They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I
reinstalled it. Â After about 8 months the m/c started to fail
again, but slowlyâ?¦ I replaced it with a new Girling and it has
gone several seasons working fine but now Iâ??m getting the slow
sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace
the seals myself.</div>
<div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">
</span>Â Â Although
Iâ??ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including
starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, Â Iâ??ll never
send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.</div>
<div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">
</span>Best,</div>
<div class=""><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">
</span>Bob<br
class="">
<div><br class="">
<blockquote type="cite" class="">
<div class="">On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay
<<a href="mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com"; class=""
moz-do-not-send="true">richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</div>
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
<div class="">
<div dir="auto" class="">
<div class="">Hello Bob, <i class="">et al.</i>,</div>
<div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
<div dir="auto" class="">Â Â Glad you're well. Here is
south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home
order and the older people (like me) are beginning
to venture out, if still maintaining safe
separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an <i
class="">All Clear</i> has been sounded and
they're back face to face. I wish them luck.</div>
<div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div dir="auto" class="">Â Â I have had two, fresh from
the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I
don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor
since they are always quite willing to make things
right, but their name does grow on the 'north side
of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am
writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?</div>
<div dir="auto" class="">Â Â In one of my unit's
failures, fresh from the box, the front brake
circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the
booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no
fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through
either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and
still works great today!</div>
<div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div dir="auto" class="">Â Â Did I get two poorly or
incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just
make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask:
How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"</div>
<div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
</div>
-rick</div>
<div dir="auto" class=""><br class="">
<div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, May 17,
2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <<a
href="mailto:6pack@autox.team.net"; class=""
moz-do-not-send="true">6pack@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br class="">
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I
hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well
in this time of quarantine. It downâ??t look like
here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will
be completely lifted for several of more weeks,
but some business slowly are beginning to be be
allowed to reopen.<br class="">
    Iâ??ve had a checkered history with master
cylinders. In the past Iâ??ve sent m/c off to be
rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them
catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation.Â
Iâ??m figuring that I can improve on that record.Â
When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review
the rebuild process the article recommended red
grease. I donâ??t have any, but I do have Volvo
silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red
brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as
lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the
bullet and get the red brake grease. About the
only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it
was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. <br
class="">
    Any advice would be appreciated. <br
class="">
    Best,<br class="">
    Bob <br class="">
    â??72 TR6<br class="">
_______________________________________________<br
class="">
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
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