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Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are available? I like the
finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I trust a
brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff. The price for
something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big consideration. That
my car still has the master cylinders it was build with makes me happy.
But Standard-Triumph always appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that a
simple drop-in chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.
On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye@comcast.net> wrote:
> If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild
> an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending =
it
> off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a
> master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint
> repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my
> mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis.
> This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood a=
nd
> others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the
> most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I
> understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly.
> Good luck for good brakes.
> Dave H.
>
> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <rrochlin@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Richard,
> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete
> rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it
> worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the gara=
ge
> and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented th=
e
> door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon.=
I
> sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body
> shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled
> it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly=E2=80=
=A6 I
> replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fi=
ne
> but now I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it a=
gain I am
> going to replace the seals myself.
> Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt components inc=
luding
> starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I=E2=80=99ll never send=
a master
> cylinder to a rebuilder again.
> Best,
> Bob
>
> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hello Bob, *et al.*,
>
> Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the
> stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to ventur=
e
> out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think
> an *All Clear* has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish
> them luck.
>
> I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working
> fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they a=
re
> always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on th=
e
> 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is t=
o
> ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
> In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake
> circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear
> brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid
> through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works
> great today!
>
> Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in Chin=
a
> just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/=
C
> "fail catastrophically?"
>
> -rick
>
> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <
> 6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of
> quarantine. It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the stay a=
t home
> order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some
> business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.
> I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In th=
e past
> I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to h=
ave them
> catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I=E2=80=99m figuring th=
at I can
> improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to revie=
w
> the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don=E2=80=99t =
have any,
> but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake
> grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or
> should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only re=
d
> grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus
> $8.00 shipping.
> Any advice would be appreciated.
> Best,
> Bob
> =E2=80=9972 TR6
> _______________________________________________
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>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are availab=
le?=C2=A0 I like the finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I=
trust a brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff.=C2=A0 =
The price for something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big =
consideration.=C2=A0 That my car still has the master cylinders it was buil=
d with makes me happy.<div><br></div><div>But Standard-Triumph always appea=
led=C2=A0to "frugal" owners, so I get=C2=A0that a simple drop-in =
chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.</div></div><br><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, May 17, 2=
020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE <<a href=3D"mailto:dlhogye@comcast.net";>dlhog=
ye@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" st=
yle=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padd=
ing-left:1ex"><u></u>
=20
=20
=20
<div>
<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild=
an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending i=
t off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost.=C2=A0 I have never rebuilt=
a master that was available new.=C2=A0 Time is money and bent panels and p=
aint repair are too, beside being dangerous.=C2=A0 I learned very early in =
my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis.=
=C2=A0 This saves components from failure and adds long life to them.=C2=A0=
Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they=
are at the most $80 new.=C2=A0 At this cost, it does not make sense to reb=
uild one.=C2=A0 I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may b=
e more costly.=C2=A0=20
</div>
<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
Good luck for good brakes.=C2=A0
</div>
<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
Dave H.
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <<a href=3D"mailto:rrochlin=
@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">rrochlin@comcast.net</a>> wrote:=20
<br>=20
<br> Hi Richard,
<div>
I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete =
rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.=C2=A0 As I recall it=
worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garag=
e and the brakes totally failed.=C2=A0 The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dent=
ed the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive after=
noon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the =
body shop fixed the TR6.=C2=A0 They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I rein=
stalled it.=C2=A0 After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but s=
lowly=E2=80=A6 I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several sea=
sons working fine but now I=E2=80=99m getting the slow sinking pedal. Befor=
e replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself.
</div>
<div>
=C2=A0=C2=A0Although I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with several rebuilt co=
mponents including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, =C2=A0I=
=E2=80=99ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again.
</div>
<div>
Best,
</div>
<div>
Bob=20
<br>
<div>
<br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay <=20
<a href=3D"mailto:richardolindsay@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank">richa=
rdolindsay@gmail.com</a>> wrote:
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<div>
Hello Bob,=20
<em>et al.</em>,
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<br>
<div dir=3D"auto">
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are=
relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginni=
ng to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'youngling=
s' seem to think an=20
<em>All Clear</em> has been sounded and they're back face to =
face. I wish them luck.
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
=C2=A0 =C2=A0I have had two, fresh from the box,=C2=A0 M/Cs fail =
then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage=
the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but t=
heir name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I=
ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
=C2=A0 =C2=A0In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box=
, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the boo=
ster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would=
flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and s=
till works great today!
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinder=
s? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I as=
k: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?"
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<br>
</div>-rick
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<br>
<div dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <=20
<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">6pack@=
autox.team.net</a>> wrote:=20
<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time =
of quarantine.=C2=A0 It down=E2=80=99t look like here in Massachusetts the =
stay at home order will be=C2=A0 completely lifted for several of more week=
s, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.=20
<br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 I=E2=80=99ve had a checkered hi=
story with master cylinders. In the past I=E2=80=99ve sent m/c off to be re=
built by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon =
after reinstallation.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m figuring that I can improve on that=
record.=C2=A0 When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuil=
d process the article recommended red grease.=C2=A0 I don=E2=80=99t have an=
y, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.=C2=A0 In the absence of red =
brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or=
should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease.=C2=A0 About the onl=
y red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 pl=
us $8.00 shipping.=20
<br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Any advice would be appreciated=
.=20
<br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Best,=20
<br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Bob=20
<br> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =E2=80=9972 TR6=20
<br> _______________________________________________=20
<br> Support=20
<a href=3D"http://Team.Net"; target=3D"_blank">Team.Net</a>=20
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; rel=3D"noopener" tar=
get=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>=20
<br> Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.96=20
<br> Archive:=20
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=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a>=20
<br> Forums:=20
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mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay@gmail.com</a>=20
<br>=20
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
<br>
</div>** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">tr=
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<div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
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