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Andrew ~
Art tells me he can remove the apron of his car in 30 minutes! That's some
mighty fast wrenching!!
Dave
On Fri, May 22, 2020, 7:00 PM Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca> wrote:
> I've almost got him convinced to take it off :)
>
> On May 22, 2020, at 6:32 PM, andrew uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>
> wrote:
>
> Ask David Friedlander if it can be done without removing the front
> apron. I think he has just spent several days lying under his TR3 trying
> to get his steering right.
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
>
>
> *From:* Art McEwen <amcewen2@cogeco.ca>
> *Sent:* Friday, May 22, 2020 9:35 AM
> *To:* andrew uprichard <auprichard@uprichard.net>; triumphs@autox.team.ne=
t
> *Subject:* RE: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild
>
>
>
> Further update.
>
>
>
> So I think what happened is my final torque down of the end cap on the
> steering box was tighter than my shim bench tests or something settled
> during that and caused binding. When I took it all off and reset
> everything with a McGiver'd way of measuring the float it all seemed good
> on 2nd install. The new bushings/felt in the upper shaft added some
> stiffness too.
>
>
>
> BTW some claim this can be done without removing the cowl (and therefore
> presumably the rad), I'd pay good money to see that on youtube....
>
> On 05/17/20, *andrew uprichard *<auprichard@uprichard.net> wrote:
>
> (Where is Randall when you need him? =F0=9F=98=8A)
>
> When you say "significantly tighter" is this turning the steering with th=
e
> tie rods connected ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a
> finger tip if the car is in the air. You should also be able to grab a
> wheel and take it through its full range of motion (everything connected)
> fairly easily.
>
> The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anything,
> should just be soaked in oil prior to installation.
>
> If it is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference,
> the pressure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the
> bottom of the box than the bearings themselves. Did you follow the metho=
d
> Randall suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Art McEwen
> Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild
>
> Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the
> bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite =
a
> parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip
> effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed
> right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight
> but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the
> travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassemble=
d
> before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the
> shaft, not vice versa.
>
> Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in th=
e
> split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering
> wheel?
>
> Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Art. 60tr
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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>
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>
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Andrew ~=C2=A0=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">Art tells me he can remove the apron of his car in 30 minutes! Th=
at's some mighty fast wrenching!!<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">Dave</div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"=
ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, May 22, 2020, 7:00 PM Art McEwen <<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:amcewen2@cogeco.ca";>amcewen2@cogeco.ca</a>> wrote:<br></di=
v><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:=
1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div></div><div>I've=
almost got him convinced to take it off :)</div><div><br>On May 22, 2020, =
at 6:32 PM, andrew uprichard <<a href=3D"mailto:auprichard@uprichard.net=
" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">auprichard@uprichard.net</a>> wro=
te:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"=
><span style=3D"font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;color:#1f497d=
">Ask David Friedlander if=C2=A0 it can be done without removing the front =
apron.=C2=A0 I think he has just spent several days lying under his TR3 try=
ing to get his steering right.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><span style=3D"font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;color:#1f49=
7d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"fo=
nt-family:"Times New Roman",serif;color:#1f497d">Andrew Uprichard=
<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:=
"Times New Roman",serif;color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span=
></p><div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #e1e1e1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt=
0in 0in 0in"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> Art McEwen <<a href=3D=
"mailto:amcewen2@cogeco.ca"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">amcewen2@c=
ogeco.ca</a>> <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, May 22, 2020 9:35 AM<br><b>To:</b=
> andrew uprichard <<a href=3D"mailto:auprichard@uprichard.net"; target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">auprichard@uprichard.net</a>>; <a href=3D=
"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">trium=
phs@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [TR] Tr3a steering tight afte=
r rebuild<u></u><u></u></p></div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u=
></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Further update.=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p><div><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l">So I think what happened is my final torque down of the end cap on the s=
teering box was tighter than my shim bench tests or something settled durin=
g that and caused binding.=C2=A0 =C2=A0When I took it all off and reset eve=
rything with a McGiver'd way of measuring the float it all seemed good =
on 2nd install.=C2=A0 =C2=A0The new bushings/felt in the upper shaft added =
some stiffness too.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u><=
/u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">BTW some claim this c=
an be done without removing the cowl (and therefore presumably the rad), I&=
#39;d pay good money to see that on youtube....<br><br>On 05/17/20, <b>andr=
ew uprichard </b><<a href=3D"mailto:auprichard@uprichard.net"; target=3D"=
_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">auprichard@uprichard.net</a>> wrote:<u></u><u=
></u></p><blockquote style=3D"border:none;border-left:solid blue 1.0pt;padd=
ing:0in 0in 0in 10.0pt;margin-left:0in;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt=
"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12.0pt">(Where is Rand=
all when you need him?=C2=A0 <span style=3D"font-family:"Segoe UI Emoj=
i",sans-serif">=F0=9F=98=8A</span>)<br><br>When you say "signific=
antly tighter" is this turning the steering with the tie rods connecte=
d ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a finger tip if the =
car is in the air.=C2=A0 You should also be able to grab a wheel and take i=
t through its full range of motion (everything connected) fairly easily.<br=
><br>The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anythi=
ng, should just be soaked in oil prior to installation.=C2=A0 <br><br>If it=
is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference, the pre=
ssure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the bottom of=
the box than the bearings themselves.=C2=A0 Did you follow the method Rand=
all suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately?<br><br>An=
drew Uprichard<br>Jackson, Michigan<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>Fr=
om: Triumphs <<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net"; target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> On B=
ehalf Of Art McEwen<br>Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM<br>To: <a href=3D=
"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">trium=
phs@autox.team.net</a><br>Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild<b=
r><br>Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on=
the bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter.=C2=A0 No=
t quite a parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger t=
ip effort.=C2=A0 And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw bac=
ked right off.=C2=A0 I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too=
tight but no difference.=C2=A0 It doesn't feel like it's binding a=
t any point of the travel, it's tight lock to lock.=C2=A0 I waited unti=
l the shaft was reassembled before tightening the box attachment bolts so t=
he box would align to the shaft, not vice versa.<br><br>Could this really a=
ll be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the split shaft (plenty=
of grease added) and the new felt at the steering wheel?=C2=A0 <br><br>Als=
o should the upper felt be greased/oiled?<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Art. 60tr<b=
r>** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"no=
referrer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://w=
ww.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://www.te=
am.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail=
/triumphs" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/piperma=
il/triumphs</a>=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"; target=3D"_bl=
ank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/=
Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichar=
d@uprichard.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard@uprichard.net</a><u></u><u></u></p></d=
iv></blockquote></div></div></div></blockquote></div></blockquote></div>
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** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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