grind but star but the I'm Paul: I think you just asked the question that has plagued mankind since the invention of the Easy-Out. I've done it a couple of ways... 1. Use a good punch (read real forg
I think you should be okay, I have a BBC in my '57, ran a 14-16lb cap without any problems, (different radiatior, same heater core). Mike oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 194
This may have been mentioned before but.... I've run 3 different GMC rearends, one 10 bolt from a '55-'59 GMC 1/2 ton (not sure of the year, the frontend was missing), one 12 bolt from a '62 GMC and
<< I need a part that I do not know where to get or exactly what to call it. It is the emergency brake cable COVER that goes between the rear drum and the frame. My existing one is warped or has some
<< Jeff, You'll have a real tired finger if ya paint it with spray cans, if you have an air compressor your over halfway there in doing the job yourself. If you have access to a paint sprayer all it'
<< I'm not sure what year it is, it's rounded, the face plate sticks out WAY more than the stock one for my '55-2 Chevy truck that I bought some time ago, but it's similar, so maybe it's a '58 or '59
<< Try a smaller main jet - our truck is the same setup; gets 12 mpg. Main metering orifice (jet) is a 54; have been told that a 48 would be MUCH better for efficiency and drivability, but have been
rearend problems. brand) disc Steve, The 2nd gen F-body (70-81) rears are a good choice, one thing is they have a 8.5inch ring gear (most anyway, some earlier ones are 8.2 I think, but still plenty s
I can help out a bit here, my preference is a MIG, using gas and .023 wire, although I now use .030 in mine to eliminate changing rolls, it's agood compromise up to 1/4inch (when veed a bit) material
interested often about hearing a referred discount I they Grant, I could understand you being unhappy with the attiude I guess, but don't see any reason what-so-ever that you would expect a refund of
out die. threads. a Unless this is a high output motor, you'll probably be okay as is, a majority of early SBC's did not even have the crank snout drilled and tapped for a bolt anyways (neither does
much in, neighbors Mike, The TH350 is too heavy to do (IMO) without a jack. Whenever I have pulled a tranny and reinstall, I let the engine mounts be my guide, then measure to the framerails, then sn
Ben, If the connections are compression type fittings, never use Teflon tape, if for some reason you're using a union type connector, the use the Teflon tape. FWIW, I've never seen anything but flare
I've just returned fomr the pickNpull here (BTW, they have a '58 or '59 front clip if anyone in the Bay Area is looking for one, hood and fenders look real good), anyway pulled a power brake setup an
I went to PickNPull the other day and pulled a Power Brake setup off a '68 '69 Chevy 1/2ton PU. Coming off the Master Cylinder is the proportioning valve, on the bottom of the proportioning valve goe
I think you're right, I received another email stating that the person had a wire running from his to the firewall, looks like someone took part of the pressure/low level switch off. Thanks for the i
Try an auto elictric shop, a lot of them do speedo repair and calibrations, and will have an adapter to use, last one I used (maybe 6-8 years ago) ran about 30 bucks, I'm sure the price has gone up.
Covair Turbo type mufflers, inexpensive, free flowing and not much rumble at all. Mike oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959