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21. oil pressure light (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 18:47:34 +0000; After the successful brake bleeding I have to report that the oil light came on yesterday after about 25 miles of driving. It came on slowly and now is bright at any ignition setting; running, engin; /html/6pack/2004-11/msg00208.html (7,467 bytes)
22. Oil pressure light update (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2004 21:30:18 +0000; Well I'm still trying to figure out why the oil pressure light came on and has remained on no matter if the engine is running or not. (ignition switch must be "on", of course) I have found that the b; /html/6pack/2004-11/msg00235.html (6,826 bytes)
23. Gauge malfuniction (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2004 22:56:18 +0000; The fuel and temperature gauges (and the turn signals) on my '72 TR6 have suddenly stopped working. I have a copy of Dan Masters' electrical guide which mentions that the voltage stabilizer might be; /html/6pack/2004-10/msg00140.html (7,175 bytes)
24. gauge malfunction remedied (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 14:38:39 +0000; Thanks to everyone who responded regarding my non-working fuel and temp gauges, and turn signals. The fuse had blown. BTW - my fuel gauge has been reading only about 3/8 no matter how much gas is in; /html/6pack/2004-10/msg00148.html (6,933 bytes)
25. Wix oil filter part number (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 14:58:48 +0000; Can someone tell me the correct Wix part number to use for my spin-on Thanks, Walt Fogle Woodinville, WA '72 TR6 (newly acquired) '69 TR6 (recently sandwiched between two Volvos!) Check out the new B; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00106.html (6,584 bytes)
26. TR6 brochures (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 13 Aug 2004 01:20:35 +0000; I have a 1st edtion (1969) showroom brochure for the TR6. I'd like to use it in my car show display of owner's materials. Was this particular brochure used through 1972? Thanks and best regards, Wal; /html/6pack/2004-08/msg00175.html (6,550 bytes)
27. Distributor installation (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 00:08:28 +0000; Hello List: Today I embarked on what I thought would be the quick removal of my old distributor and replacement with a rebuilt unit. I've had a devil of a time getting the two teeth of the new distri; /html/6pack/2004-05/msg00197.html (7,250 bytes)
28. SU HS6 dashpots (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 16:19:36 +0000; I have the new SU conversion carbs on my '69 TR6. Where should the dashpot pistons begin to meet resistance after filling the dashpots? Should it be about 1/4" from where the cap makes contact with; /html/6pack/2004-05/msg00284.html (6,349 bytes)
29. Removal tool for TR250/early TR6 rostyle hubcaps (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2004 21:17:47 +0000; I recently acquired a nice set of rostyle hubcaps for my 1969 TR6. My owner's manual shows a "L" shaped tool that's used for poping the hubcaps off the wheel when you want to remove them. Does anyon; /html/6pack/2004-03/msg00313.html (7,159 bytes)
30. Another wheel question - '69 TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 16:51:30 +0000; I just acquired a set of original Rostyle wheel covers and plan to use them on my '69 TR6. The car is still fitted with the original wheels with the 3 mounting studs. The wheelcovers I purchased are; /html/6pack/2004-01/msg00142.html (6,919 bytes)
31. Rough running epidemic (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 23:31:25 +0000; There have been quite a few posts regarding rough running and idle lately. Having had the same symptoms with my TR6 a short time ago I'm beginning to wonder if there's a bad batch of distributor rot; /html/6pack/2003-07/msg00294.html (7,167 bytes)
32. Re: Horn Contact Question (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 00:08:12 +0000; I'll try this again as I forgot to remove the trailer from my first reply. I repaired the horn ciruit on my '69 TR6 a while back. You'll need to order the longer brush. The short one (supposedly cor; /html/6pack/2003-07/msg00326.html (9,106 bytes)
33. RE: shaking steering wheel (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 03:58:36 +0000; Don't rule out bad u-joints on the propshaft. I found this to be the case with my '69 TR6 a short while ago. With new, balanced tires, front end rebuild, pro alignment, etc. the shaking at 55-60 mph; /html/6pack/2003-07/msg00385.html (8,930 bytes)
34. Dismantling a tachometer (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 23:43:32 +0000; I've had the worst luck with tachometers lately. To make a long story short how do you remove the indicator needle from the mechanical TR6 tachometer? The removal of the works from the gauge face is; /html/6pack/2003-06/msg00051.html (7,307 bytes)
35. Re: hazard switch question about originality. (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 14:45:45 +0000; I have the original owner's manual for my '69 TR6 and a original showroom brochure. Both clearly show the triangle with apex pointed up. As for the bezel it's a bit unclear but the hazard switch doe; /html/6pack/2003-06/msg00136.html (7,964 bytes)
36. Re: TR6 engine stutter (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:02:23 +0000; rough running when the engine is warm. Firstly, check to see that the rotor is correct. (replace if you have a new one on your garage shelf) I found that I was shipped an incorrect rotor from one of; /html/6pack/2003-06/msg00273.html (7,862 bytes)
37. Re: still missing (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 13:02:47 +0000; Check the distributor rotor. A few weeks ago I was frustrated by the same symptoms with my '69 TR6. I checked everything you have done. It turns out that the wrong rotor was installed. I can't even; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00336.html (8,335 bytes)
38. Re: Carb Tuning High Idle (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 20:36:25 +0000; You might want to check those bypass valves. There's a good chance you've got a large vacuum leak which will cause a very high idle. Even after I rebuil my cars I had to block the valves off complet; /html/6pack/2003-05/msg00345.html (8,220 bytes)
39. Re: Carb rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 13:28:19 +0000; During a carb rebuild two years ago I found that the float valves were operating freely but the the hole was worn and enlarged. (not speaking of the main jets) I replaced them. Since the diaphragms; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00387.html (8,412 bytes)
40. How do you remove glass from tach bezel? (score: 1): Author: "Walter Fogle" <lbc4me@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 17:39:25 +0000; I'm refinishing the bezel and hope to replace the fiber washers and rubber seals of my 1969 TR6 tachometer & speedo. Can someone tell me how to remove the glass from the bezel without damaging eithe; /html/6pack/2003-04/msg00457.html (7,220 bytes)

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