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References: [ +from:vze2846b@verizon.net: 331 ]

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141. Trailing arm bolts- update (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 14:57:03 -0500; Spent my lunch looking through "How to Restore Triumph TR5/250& TR6" by Williams. Low and behold, on page 140 he has a close up picture of a trailing arm attached to a dummy frame. The caption sugges; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00405.html (7,136 bytes)
142. Re: Trailing arm bolts- update (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 15:57:29 -0500; I think you misunderstood my post. I would use the Loctite on the stud where it goes into the aluminum only. The other side of the stud gets a nyloc nut. Peter; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00410.html (8,438 bytes)
143. Broken diff mount (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 16:14:31 -0500; Well, I couldn't get focused on work today so I headed out to the garage. Removed the diff to find a cracked right front mount. The stud has not broken from the top support, but there is a crack all; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00428.html (6,975 bytes)
144. Re: Compression and head shaving (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 10:49:27 -0500; You can get an estimate, not an exact figure by measuring the head thickness. Get a micrometer or a good set of calipers. Measure the thickness between the head/ block mating surface and the surface; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00451.html (8,293 bytes)
145. Re: Steering Rack Boot Installation (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 13:32:33 -0500; It has been a while since I did this but I recall using an old plastic gallon milk jug. I cut it apart to make a sheet. Placed the sheet so that it makes a funnel shaped over the steering components; /html/6pack/2002-11/msg00505.html (7,708 bytes)
146. Re: Correct colors? - Manifolds and WP/t-stat Housings (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 11:04:55 -0400; The intake manifold and the thermostat housing are aluminum (at least on my 250). I bead-blasted them and sprayed them with the Diamond Clear Semi Gloss from Eastwood. So far (2 years), they look gr; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00040.html (8,320 bytes)
147. Re: tr6 car insurance (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 16:04:22 -0400; That's a great rate, but I bet if you read the policy you will see that it precludes the car from being a daily driver like Alan's. Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00051.html (9,101 bytes)
148. Re: Webers(wasTRF headers [was "Magic Clutch" Kit by TRF]) (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 14:58:42 -0400; And to the dual ZS on the stock manifold? I'd love to see the dyno results on one car with each option in turn. Bet that would be interesting. Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00084.html (8,718 bytes)
149. Re: Front Wheel Stud (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 16:41:04 -0400; Oh yea, you gotta be willing to bend it a bit in the process. First try to screw a big sheet metal screw into the center hole. Sometimes it pushes the cap out before the hole strips. When that fails,; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00091.html (8,312 bytes)
150. Re: TRF headers [was "Magic Clutch" Kit by TRF] (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 19:52:40 -0400; I think your estimate of $100 per 1hp is a bit off. I did the following to my engine this winter: 1- Shaved the head to get about 9.5-1 compression $80 2- SS header and exhaust from Rimmer (free shi; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00100.html (13,481 bytes)
151. Re: removing camshaft (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 08:10:56 -0400; You need to remove the manifolds because the head has to come off. When you change the cam, the lifters also have to be changed and there is only one way to do that, heads off. If you want to see th; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00108.html (7,562 bytes)
152. Re: Differential Drain Plug (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 21:50:32 -0400; I am planning to drop the diff this winter to weld in some pin support, replace the diff bushings with poly and fix a leaky front seal (second time). In the process, I am going to install a drain pl; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00123.html (8,668 bytes)
153. Home welders (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 21:53:58 -0400; Anyone have experience with the 120 volt home MIG welders? There are several models out there from Lincoln, Hobart, Miller and Schumacher in the $450- 500 range. I'm thinking maybe this winter... TIA; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00125.html (7,069 bytes)
154. Re: Adjustable camshaft (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 14:37:33 -0400; Dick- good thought but too easy. I used Vizard's manual when doing my top end and in chapter 24, he refers to rotating the sprocket 90 degrees a couple of times. His remedy for a crank error of 4.3 d; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00145.html (8,014 bytes)
155. Re: Drive train HP losses... (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 12:02:14 -0400; I'm not sure if pushing harder= more friction or drag. At least not in a significant way. Even if more friction is generated at higher engine speeds, the friction would not be linear and you would f; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00160.html (8,190 bytes)
156. Re: TRF headers [was "Magic Clutch" Kit by TRF] (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 12:02:48 -0400; I agree with some of your points, but take issue with many more. First, in your previous post you didn't state that your $100 estimate was for rear wheel hp, but even so, I think I it is too high. I; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00194.html (11,575 bytes)
157. Re: Choke problem (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 17:27:47 -0400; Go out to the car and pull out the choke. Pop the hood and look at where the cables attach to the carbs. You will see a curved bit of metal that rides on the head of a bolt. Make sure that this curv; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00247.html (7,496 bytes)
158. Re: Choke problem- Oil canister (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Wed, 09 Oct 2002 20:09:59 -0400; This is a common problem. Somehow, you (or a PO) have probably gotten 2 gaskets into the groove. Take the can off and really fish in the groove with a sharp awl or knife. You will likely find 2 of t; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00255.html (7,076 bytes)
159. Re: Kangol Seat belt housing color (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:07:25 -0400; Save yourself the shipping/handling fee. I saw it in The Home Depot a few month's ago. Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00312.html (8,477 bytes)
160. Re: TR-6 Oil filter Spin on adapter (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2002 20:31:05 -0400; There are any number of filters that will fit the spin on set-up. I believe that this Fram has a check valve to keep oil in the filter between uses. Gas in the oil is not good. The most common reaso; /html/6pack/2002-10/msg00351.html (7,510 bytes)

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