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1. [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: "Antonio R. Tijerino" <antonio@innercite.com>; Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 22:26:15 -0700; I have a question for the engine rebuilding experts. I am getting a '56 235 cid engine that has been recently bored 0.30 and the crank has been ground 0.10/0.10. New cam bearings installed. I have re; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00359.html (8,216 bytes)
2. Re: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: "jack halton" <safesix@worldnet.att.net>; Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 07:32:36 -0400; Either this guy is confused, or you have an older motor. The older babbitt rod motors used shims on the rod bearing caps, but later 235s use insert bearings - no shims required. Most "production" mac; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00364.html (9,287 bytes)
3. Re: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: "Allen L. Jones" <ALJ@hartcrowser.com>; Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:03:55 -0700; However, there are shims installed at the factory under the main bearing caps in a lot of 235s and 261s. Ever notice those really, really thin sheets of metal under the mains? Typically under the rea; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00365.html (10,046 bytes)
4. Re: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: Thomas Allen <thomasa@halcyon.com>; Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 09:06:54 -0700; If you do not have shims it may not be a problem. In the days when production tolerances were not as good as today shims were used to adjust bearing clearances. With Chevrolet, this carried over to t; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00366.html (10,059 bytes)
5. Re: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: MKlepp4335@cs.com; Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:22:14 EDT; My '54 235 required shims to get an accurate clearance (using plastigauge) on the mains (.020 under). Most mail order sources (including NAPA) carry the shim set. I don't now if or when the shims wer; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00367.html (7,763 bytes)
6. RE: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: MIKE RAHL <MRAHL@martinmartin.com>; Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 10:46:57 -0600; The 55 235 I just recently dissassembled had shims under the main bearing caps. According to the shop manual they were used for bearing adjustment. My crank was ground 10/10 and I don't plan on using; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00368.html (10,627 bytes)
7. Re: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: "Antonio R. Tijerino" <antonio@innercite.com>; Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 22:16:57 -0700; Oletruck list members. Thanks for the replies about my shims questions. I guess the general consensus is that shims are required before '56 to adjust the main bearing caps. My '56 does not require th; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00394.html (12,028 bytes)
8. Re: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: Advdesign1@aol.com; Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 07:29:48 EDT; << about my shims questions. I guess the general consensus is that shims are required before '56 to adjust the main bearing caps. My '56 does not require the shims, so I should be ok. >> Verify with; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00397.html (7,655 bytes)
9. RE: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: MIKE RAHL <MRAHL@martinmartin.com>; Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 07:40:18 -0600; Standard bore for a 235 is 3-9/16". If your block has already been bored 30 over, then you would order 30 over pistons. Your machinist should have miked the bores first, then decided which overbore; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00400.html (12,736 bytes)
10. RE: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: Thomas Allen <thomasa@halcyon.com>; Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 10:36:48 -0700; All is not lost if the pistons don't exactly match the 0.030 over bores. If the bore for a particlar piston is too small you should hone it to fit. Assuming you have no bore mic. the time honored me; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00404.html (14,804 bytes)
11. RE: [oletrucks] Engine questions (score: 1): Author: MIKE RAHL <MRAHL@martinmartin.com>; Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 13:43:15 -0600; I'm not familiar with "Total Seal" rings. Perhaps you could extrapolate - physically how are they different, where do you get them, etc.... Thanks, Mike oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks b; /html/oletrucks/1999-08/msg00407.html (7,646 bytes)
12. [oletrucks] Engine Questions (score: 1): Author: "Kiel Parkinson" <InsanityIsBorn@comcast.net>; Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 17:52:57 -0600; Hi my name is Kiel Parkinson, I am a 19 year old College student struggling to make ends meet, and my transportation just bailed out on me. My engine blew up. I own a 1951 Chevrolet 3100, and I am st; /html/oletrucks/2006-06/msg00062.html (7,334 bytes)
13. RE: [oletrucks] Engine Questions (score: 1): Author: "Mike Baggese" <passnb4u@earthlink.net>; Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 17:55:14 -0700; Hey Kiel, First you need to consider your budget. Next consider how much time you have to get it going. There's not a whole lot of economy differences between a V8 (assuming a mild build) and n i6 in; /html/oletrucks/2006-06/msg00063.html (9,153 bytes)
14. Re: [oletrucks] Engine Questions (score: 1): Author: "Steve Hanberg" <Steve@oldsub.com>; Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 17:56:58 -0700; The most economical answer will be to replace the motor that blew with one from the same family. Swapping to a V-8 will not be safer, cheaper to do, or more economical. Not safer because a V-8 swap w; /html/oletrucks/2006-06/msg00064.html (8,098 bytes)

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