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Total 24 documents matching your query.

1. Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Christian, Skip" <wellner.christian@navy.mil>; Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2004 12:43:28 -0400; 1) What is the best oil type (Gear or Motor oil) and additive to put in MGB non-overdrive transmission to quiet noise ??? I' am currently using Amsoil 20w50 with PTFE - adding the PTFE made it shift; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00110.html (7,979 bytes)
2. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>; Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2004 13:03:02 -0700; Try not holding the shift lever against your ear <g> Somewhere I saw a suggestion to use 40wt to quiet a noisy gearbox. It seemed to have some effect on my old 3-synchro box. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00115.html (8,556 bytes)
3. RE: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Larry list account" <list@marketvalue.net>; Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2004 14:54:29 -0600; If it is noise being transmitted from the gear box to the shifter you may be on the right track. But don't discount the shifter. That could be the source of the noise. There are several items that se; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00116.html (9,176 bytes)
4. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 15:44:42 +0100; Should be engine oil, typically 20W/50, in the gearbox with or without overdrive. Rattling can be due to a worn or lost plastic bush at the bottom of the gear lever, this also causes the lever to wag; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00122.html (8,901 bytes)
5. RE: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Christian, Skip" <wellner.christian@navy.mil>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 11:42:34 -0400; Thanks Paul and everyone else who responded to my questions !!! I've been running Amsoil 20-w50 plus a PTFE additive. Found that the PTFE (Teflon in suspension) really helps with older gearboxes. Gea; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00124.html (10,315 bytes)
6. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 16:56:11 +0100; Hi Skip, Does seem like new/rebuilt carbs would be of benefit. Off the top of my head I can only think of a couple of benefits with HIFs - they have a temperature compensated jet should not suffer fr; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00125.html (9,697 bytes)
7. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Rick Lindsay" <rick@stoolhead.com>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 12:36:57 -0500; I have put a BandAde on the worn-throttle-shaftbushings/bores by installing vacuum-greasesaturated felt washers next to the carb body where the shaft exits (and air enters). Vacuum grease is engineer; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00126.html (9,256 bytes)
8. RE: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Rick Lindsay" <rick@stoolhead.com>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 12:39:55 -0500; Skip, the simple SUs are the best, in my book. The add-on junk of the later carbs is mostly for emissions and ease of operation. If you can pull a choke handle, you are "there". Then again, you might; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00127.html (9,332 bytes)
9. RE: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Christian, Skip" <wellner.christian@navy.mil>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 12:49:29 -0400; Good idea !! I was thinking of coating the shaft ends with grease/oil, wiping it off but just leaving a fine coating, and finally sealing the ends with Permatex silicone gasket sealer. Theoretically; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00128.html (9,592 bytes)
10. RE: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Dean T. Lake" <dtlake@erols.com>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 13:13:21 -0400; --Original Message-- probably junk the HIFs If all they need is new shaft bushings I'll take them off your hands for the cost of postage - if you are just going to junk them anyway! have told me to k; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00129.html (9,848 bytes)
11. FW: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Dean T. Lake" <dtlake@erols.com>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 13:16:46 -0400; My dual HIF's have the pull choke from new anyway. If I am not mistaken, it wasn't until the single carbs when the chokes became truly automatic. Dean --Original Message-- The add-on junk of the late; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00130.html (8,600 bytes)
12. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: <ptegler@cablespeed.com>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 13:25:45 -0400; Another simple seal I've recently found... to seal the shafts a bit..... just slide a HIF4 style and or even a ZS style shaft seal up against the housing on the non lever end. Personally on those end; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00131.html (11,454 bytes)
13. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Kai M. Radicke" <kai@radiohead.net>; Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 14:14:35 -0400; The HIF series of SU carburettors is an improvement over the older H and HS series. Here are the reasons: On the positive side... 1) They flow more air, typically 5-10% more CFM than the earlier mod; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00132.html (10,189 bytes)
14. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: Rocky Frisco <rock@rocky-frisco.com>; Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 14:03:11 -0500; My own preference is based partly on the fact that with the floatbowl centrally located the fuel-flow characteristics don't change under hard acceleration, braking or cornering. I also very much pref; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00133.html (10,067 bytes)
15. RE: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Christian, Skip" <wellner.christian@navy.mil>; Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 06:54:22 -0400; Thanks for the info !!! I don't think HIF's are that complex. Just think the ones one my car managed to wear out in the last few months. Very frustrating - first I fixed the high idle by changing the; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00142.html (12,350 bytes)
16. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>; Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 15:20:00 +0100; I suppose it is possible that worn throttle spindle bushings could allow mixture to get past the butterfly and hence cause a high idle. But in most cases a high idle is one or more of several things; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00143.html (9,602 bytes)
17. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: dave houser <mgs4dave@tampabay.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 10:47:50 -0400; One other point: rattling and vibration in the shifter can also be caused by a gear shift knob that has it's threaded portion loose in the shifter. Most of the AMCO shifters I tried were loose betwee; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00145.html (8,635 bytes)
18. RE: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Christian, Skip" <wellner.christian@navy.mil>; Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 11:03:19 -0400; I installed solid throttle plates without removing the spindle clamps, so I'm pretty sure the spindle clamps are not pulling the throttle plates off to the side. Plates were centered exactly when I; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00146.html (10,212 bytes)
19. RE: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: "Christian, Skip" <wellner.christian@navy.mil>; Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 11:07:56 -0400; Another poster said his noise was from an aftermarket shift knob. Will re-install the original shift knob (came with the car) and let you know. Wonder if Teflon tape on the shift lever to knob threa; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00147.html (9,033 bytes)
20. Re: Carb & Trans Oil Questions (score: 1): Author: Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>; Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 09:53:35 -0700; If the shift knob is loose enough to rattle you'd think you would notice it every time you grabbed a gear. The solution is to tighten the lock nut. -- Max Heim '66 MGB GHN3L76149 If you're near Mount; /html/mgs/2004-04/msg00148.html (9,446 bytes)

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