Kyle
First thing you need to do when you start to work on
this again is to write down each step that you check
and what the results were. This way you can put
things back to the way they were before you made the
adjustment.
Like Dick said in his e-mail, stay with the
electrical side of things before you move on to
vacuum, fuel, and carburetion. Remember to write each
step that you do down so you know what you did and the
results.
One of your steps should be to by-pass all the fuel
traps to see if they may be a problem for the vacuum
system. Take a reading with a vacuum gauge at the
distributor and at the carbs to see what you read
before you remove the traps and again after. Remember
to write down your findings.
The only time fuel is a problem is if it has dirt or
water in it. If you have good pressure at the carbs,
check it though the rpm range, then all is well. The
only thing in this area that may be a source for a
miss is if the fuel pump is weak and can't keep up
with demand. Since you also had your carbs rebuilt
are you sure that they are adjusted correctly? Did
you replace the fuel filter?
Since you have had the engine rebuilt, check the
timing again. It also could be a source for the rough
idle. As for the white smoke have you broke in the
engine like Dick described a few weeks ago? If your
rings have not sit ted yet then this could cause the
smoke.
There are a lot of things that could cause this
problem, especially after an d engine rebuild. It
will be a step by step process to find the solution.
Dale
--- "Kyle K. Rice" <kkrice@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Dale,
>
> I will check which rotor was used. Do you think the
> problem could be a
> cloged fuel trap in the vacuum lines which may cause
> a problem with vacuum
> advance? I feel like fuel is also a problem because
> it will not idle when
> cold without a good dose of throtle. When it warms
> up, it idles a bit rough
> but it is fine. My wife also said she saw some
> white smoke (very small
> amount) at times when I was driving at freeway
> speeds. This could be when
> the motor misses. I will let everyone know what I
> find out. The car is at
> the upholstery shop for the next two weeks but when
> I drive it home, I will
> see what I can do.
>
> Kyle.
>
> At 01:58 PM 6/10/00 -0700, you wrote:
> > Kyle
> >
> > After reading this a couple of times, and Dick's
> >reply, two things come to mind.
> >
> > First: You stated that you have a Crane ignition
> >system in your car. In my case there were two optic
> >window rotors. One with a curved opening and the
> other
> >with a straight limited opening. If you have used
> the
> >curved one it gives a spark bounce at various
> rpm's.
> >This may be your problem, if you have use this
> rotor.
> >Change to the straight one and see if there is a
> >difference.
> >
> > Second: It also sound like it could be a vacuum
> >leak. If you have a can of ether, with a tube
> nozzle
> >from a can of WD-40, that you can direct the spray
> to
> >areas such as the intake manifold and the carb
> >mounting points to see if there is an increase in
> >engine rpm's. Have a fire extinguisher available
> and
> >do not do this with a hot motor.
> >
> > Like Dick said try the simple things first before
> >you go buying a bunch of parts. Keep the list
> posted
> >on your progress.
> >
> > Dale
> >
> >
> >--- "Kyle K. Rice" <kkrice@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> Everyone,
> >>
> >> I have a high rpm miss on my 74 TR6. At about
> 45-70
> >> mph, there is a slight
> >> miss which occures at random times but occures
> >> often. I am not sure where
> >> to start looking. Could this be caused by the
> >> carbs, ignition, exaust leak,
> >> intake leak, vacume leak, electrical, timing, ???
>
> >> The engine is newly
> >> rebuilt as are the carbs. It passed smog in
> >> California with flying colors.
> >> The car has the following:
> >>
> >> crane elec. ignition
> >> sport exaust
> >> Good Parts ram air air cleaner
> >> all new hoses including vacume hoses
> >> British Parts Nortwest mild cam
> >> Rebuilt head with valve seals
> >>
> >> The car starts fine with the choke on but will
> not
> >> idle with out me pressing
> >> on the gas pedal. Once it warms up, it idles
> around
> >> 800 but kind of rough.
> >>
> >> Can anyone give some insight on the possible
> cause
> >> and cure.
> >>
> >> Thanks Kyle
> >>
> >> Kyle Rice
> >> kkrice@earthlink.net
> >>
> >
> >
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> >
> >
>
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