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Re: removing the flywheel

To: Alan & Debbie Lindner <theedge@cts.com>
Subject: Re: removing the flywheel
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 12:17:56 -0400 (EDT)
On Thu, 22 Aug 2002, Alan & Debbie Lindner wrote:

> Well, I got one of the bolts off.  How should you stop the engine 
> from turning when trying to take off the bolts?

You can get a tool that will lock the flywheel in place. You can also use
the "rope trick". I also find that using an impact wrench is perfect for
the job.
 
> When putting the flywheel back on, do you recommend locktight?

This depends on what bolts you use. If you use the stock setup, use
Loctite Red (271) and the proper torque values in the book (I think it's
70 ft/lbs or so.

If you "upgrade" to ARP bolts or other non-stock setup, then you need to
utilize the manufacturer's suggestion. The ARP bolts use a special "moly
lube" and a different torque value (which is lower than stock!).

That being said, the stock bolts and the factory torque spec are perfectly
adequate for all but the most extreme service. If you run your motor over
5500 on a regular basis, you should add "check flywheel to crank
attachment bolts" as part of your regular service. Yes, this means yank
the tranny and clutch...

> =========================
> Alan Lindner
> '72 TR6 French Blue
> CC75676L
> San Diego, CA

regards,
rml
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