Ken,
I'm afraid your in for a rude awakening here, the door gaps are due to the
chassis "hogging: In the back behind what is called the T-Shirt area right
before the differential. This can be remedied by doing one of three things. But
I would go and find how the book "How to restore your TR6" on e-bay, it
explains this in detail.
A) Put spacers in the rear body mounts to raise the rear of the body up a bit.
This exposes the rear chassis members (a bit ugly) but it closes the door gaps
nicely.
b) Fix the chassis, IE Bend it back to it's original position: While this can
be done by a competent body shop with a frame straightener, finding someone
that knows what to do with a 30 year old British car, will be very difficult. I
did read on the list somewhere how to pull it up with a come-along attached to
the rear chassis arms and the top of the differential mounts. I thought about
doing this, but My chassis was just too rusty.
c) Cut out the rear rusted portion of the rear (thats why it bent to begin
with) and weld in new components, this should be done with the body off to
facilitate straightening the chassis.
Me, what did I do. I found a perfect 1974 chassis with no rust, measured it as
per bently to make sure it was straight, powder coated it, then rust proofed
the inside of it and in any open areas I could find, then attached the
suspension, then put the body back on. It fit just about perfect with no
spacers. Cost $4000.
--
Gene Hart
genehart@att.net
1973 TR6 CF10918 U
(Now UO, thanks j.esposito)
Carmine to Pimento
(thanks PPG & Kojack Autobody)-The
owner looks like Kojack :)
Undergoing body & frame off, frame
and body reunited :)
(thanks patient & loving wife)
(c)(201)981-3327
> Hello all,
>
> I am new to this group but not to the cars of England, having been
> indoctrinated with a '53 TD as my very first mode of (semi) transportation
> other than a bicycle.
>
> Now it is a TR6 that is awaiting refurbishing in my driveway and that leads
> me to a couple of questions: the door-body gap is about 3/8in wider at the
> top than at the bottom while the hardtop doesn't engage the windscreen when
> set in place with the bolts in the back - does this indicate a tweaked
> chassis or just body panels that need shimming?
>
> If it is a chassis bend, does anyone know of a shop in the Los
> Angeles/Glendale who would do a good job straightening things out?
>
> This is the start of a full restoration and so the body panels will
> eventually come off for thorough conditioning of the understructures - oh,
> how we beg for pain! but that seems to be the best way to ensure that
> things are done right under there. Looking forward, Ken Glendale, Ca.
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