Ohan,
If it was my engine, this is what I'd be in for.
1) Tear the motor down, measure the crank journals and bores.
2) Note the size of the thrust bearings, since DPO might have used an oversize.
3) Buy the next oversize pistons (I dont bother trying to reuse seemingly good
pistons)
4) Buy the next undersize main and rod bearings.
5) Send the block+caps, crank, rods and bearings to a machinist, have the crank
turned to the bearings you supplied.
6) Have the rods resized, and shot-peened.
7) If you are extra serious, have the rods and pistons marked and have the
rotating assembly zero-ballanced.
8) Have the block cleaned and flushed chemically with the plugs removed (beware
of the casting sand at #4).
9) Order a new plug set, including the cam plug, get a new oil pump (send me
your old one).
10) Have the bores machined to the supplied pistons.
11) Order an upper and lower gasket set.
12) Order a new set of lifters, or have yours re-surfaced.
13) Order a new timing chain, and chain tension block.
14) Have a machinist inspect your valves, guides and rockers.
15) Make sure your water passages on the head are top notch, else get another
head.
16) Inspect pushrods for trueness, and nipple like wear on the lifter side of
the rods.
17) Assemble head and springs, test each spring for its seating pressure.
18) Clean the oil passages by hand, remove the pipe plugs everywhere, clean,
clean clean.
19) Assembly your engine on your kitchen counter, the garage is probably too
dirty.
20) (after you have conficed your wife you were joking) Clean everything else,
and begin reasembly.
21) Use assembly lubricant on all the bearings inclding the cam, and all
lifters.
22) After the engine is all together, prime the oil galleries by removing the
oil filter and pouring oil into both sides
of the filter base holes (hint, the one that doesnt get full is the wrong
one).
23) Break the engine in my runnign 2500 RPM for 45 minutes, preventing
overheating.
Before you start this whole process , get your current engine running as well
as possible, so when you go to
start you fresh engine, it will run well enough to properly break in the
engine, particularly the cam to the lifters.
Now this is not a complete procedure, but should give you an idea of the parts
you need to buy, and the timing
for all the purchases in relation to the machining.
HTH,
Jarrid Gross
SII 1725 EFI
-----Original Message-----
From: Ohan- SunbeamCanada <yvrcanada@hotmail.com>
Sent: Jul 25, 2004 8:17 PM
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: rebuilding 1725
Hello All,
After an engine mishap yesterday where my engine seized in the most
inoppurtune moment, I managed to get the Alpine home.
I've decied that if I am taking the 1725 engine apart to track the source of
the problem, perhaps it is time to replenish it with new parts. Before I
take the plunge, I need to know which parts I should replace and which I can
reuse. Cash flow is always an issue but to save me from another roadside
encounter, I want to be assured that the engine is going to go the distance.
I checked the list of parts on sunbeam specialties to give me an idea of
what parts to get but I would like to hear from anyone who has done such a
project.
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